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Angora Rabbit Care

3/7/2015

101 Comments

 
Learn how to properly care for your new angora rabbit.
Congratulations! You are now a proud fuzzy bunny parent! The information provided is intended to help you keep your fuzzy bunny healthy & happy in the many years to come.

Feeding:
Angora rabbits require a high fiber high protein diet. They need the extra protein to support constant wool production & the high fiber to reduce their risk of getting wool block. Commercial rabbit pellets containing 18% protein can be purchased at most pets stores & feed 
stores as well as ordered online & delivered to your home. Organic feeds can often be ordered by your local feed store if you ask.  You can also order organic feeds online from companies such as New Country Organics. Up until 4 - 6 months of age, you can feed your rabbit free choice with a constant supply of pellets, timothy grass & hay. Do not feed your rabbits extra alfalfa (no more than is provided already in their commercial pellets). Alfalfa is high in calcium & can increase the risk of urinary problems such as bladder sludge & stones. After 6 months your rabbit is an adult & as a result, his or her feed needs to be cut back.  

There are many food bowl options for your rabbit. Metal Snap'y Fit bowls work best. They come in a large variety of sizes, are easy to clean, the rabbit cannot chew them or remove the bowls. Plastic crocks that twist lock into place are not the best as the rabbit can chew the bowl as well as untwist the bowl if they decide to dig in their bowl. The result will be a mess of wasted pellets. Metal sifter feeders that attach to the outside or inside of the cage & fill from the top can clog, preventing the rabbit from getting their feed. Ceramic crocks that sit on the bottom of the cage or in a holder can be easily knocked around & out of their holder resulting in wasted pellets, plus rabbits can poop in their bowls if kept on the bottom of the cage. Be sure to place the Snappy Fit feeder high enough so that it doesn't take away valuable floor space for your rabbit & so that it is not low enough for the rabbit to defecate in it. Your rabbits food bowl should be cleaned with soap & water at minimum once a week.

The following guidelines are for adult rabbits
Note: Bunnies under 6 months should be fed free choice with no restrictions or limitations in order to properly nourish their growing bodies.

Feeding pellets:  

English Angora  1/3 cup twice a day.  
French Angora  1/2 cup twice a day.  
German Angora 1/2 cup twice a day.  
Satin Angora  1/2 cup twice a day.  
Jersey Wooly 1/4 cup twice a day.

Feeding hay:

Hay is critical to add roughage to their diet which helps prevent wool block. Despite the mess, hay should be provided in unlimited amounts free choice. No angora rabbit should ever be without access to fresh clean hay.  It can be fed loose in the cage (this will require you to groom the rabbit daily) or in a hay feeder rack.  These are sold at most pet stores & can also be ordered online. Rabbits also enjoy having hay stuffed into untreated/unpainted toilet paper rolls. Toilet paper rolls are a great way to add the more expensive timothy hay as a special treat. Simply refill as needed & replace the toilet paper roll if it becomes soiled. Many rabbits will happily chew up the toilet paper roll & toss it around their home.

Water:

Always make sure your rabbit has a constant supply of fresh water. Water enables the rabbit to properly regulate their body temperature. A lack of fresh water can be the death of your rabbit. Water bottles can be purchased at almost any feed store, pet store, chain store & online. They are a quick & affordable way to provide fresh clean water while keeping the rabbits wool dry. Wet wool can mat & cause many skin problems.  Be sure to check your rabbits water bottle daily & fill as needed. Never let your rabbit run out of water!  Water bottles should be cleaned at minimum once a week. Special bottle brushes are sold for this exact purpose. They can typically be purchased at the same location you bought your bottles.

Water In Winter:

If it freezes in winter where you live you will need to be very careful with your water bottles. Bring them inside when the temperatures fall below freezing.  In the heart of winter you will find you need to bring them inside repeatedly during especially frigged days to insure they do not freeze. This is not only a hardship for you, but it is also dangerous for your rabbit to be without water for extended periods of time. In these extreme situations I tentatively suggest heated bowls.  When using water bowls vs. bottles you risk wet wool which in turn can create skin problems. To reduce the risk of frozen wool & skin you will need to trim the wool around your bunnies face with round tip shears. Some angora bunnies will not need to be trimmed, but for others like the English Angora it is a must.  Be sure to keep the facial wool as short as possible while using this method to provide water for your bunnies. Always check their face for any mats or skin issues. For safety purposes you will want to ensure you use the proper extension cord/s as well as protect any points that are plugged in outdoors from the elements. If you have multiple heated bowls you will want a pig tail power cord. Select the length/s you will need & the quantities. You will next need to protect these connections with weatherproof boxes.  Last you need a main extension cord. Whatever you do, do not cheap out on your cords & connections. Improper cords & connections are dangerous. They can cause fires, shorts & make your circuit breaker box trip. Measure everything out prior to making any purchases so you know exactly what you will need. The easiest way to re-fill these types of water bowls is to use a watering can with a long spout.

Seed Mixes:

A mix of Calf Manna, dry old fashioned oats (not quick cook), black oil sunflower seeds, safflower seeds, & barely can be fed once a week as a treat. Be sure to offer this in a separate feed bowl from the regular feed to keep your rabbit from digging the pelleted food out in order to get to the seed mix. If feeding organic, you will want to omit the Calf Manna. Calf Manna can usually be found at feed stores. Seeds & oats can be found online & in some stores. If feeding organic, you can try the natural food section of your grocery store, the natural food store or order online.

Supplements:

One papaya tablet or one small piece of dried organic pineapple or dried organic papaya can be fed daily. The rabbit considers it a treat but it's purpose is as a wool block preventative. Do not give more! The sugars are too high & can easily cause diarrhea which can be fatal to your rabbit.  If you choose to supplement with dried pineapple or papaya be sure to buy organic with one ingredient, "pineapple" or "papaya". Sulfured, candied & other oddities can do your rabbit serious harm & may even kill your bunny. Organic dried pineapple & papaya can be purchased online, in some grocery stores as well as some natural food stores. Papaya tablets can be purchase in most pet stores as well as online.

Fresh Food:

Rabbits in the wild do not eat pellets. Offering your rabbits plenty of fresh foods (and hay) more closely resembles a rabbits natural diet. Use dark leafy greens that are richer in nutrients than the pale green types. Feed a minimum of three different types of greens daily. Don't stick to just one type. The following foods are safe for rabbits as long as they are free from chemical residues & fertilizers (organic is best):

⦁    Alder
⦁    Alfalfa
⦁    Apple: Fruit, twigs/branches & leaves (not seeds)
⦁    Artichoke
⦁    Ash: Twigs/branches
⦁    Asparagus
⦁    Basil
⦁    Banana (in very limited quantities due to high sugar)
⦁    Beet Tops
⦁    Bok Choy
⦁    Broccoli Leaves
⦁    Catnip
⦁    Chard (can cause gas)
⦁    Cilantro
⦁    Dandelion: leaves & flowers
⦁    Endive (can cause gas)
⦁    Evening Primrose
⦁    Fennel & blooms
⦁    Garden Cress
⦁    Garden Nasturtium/Indian Cress
⦁    Grains:  Wheat, oat, barley, milo, millet
⦁    Grapes: Vines, leaves
⦁    Grasses  
⦁    Great Plantain & blooms
⦁    Hazel: Twigs/branches
⦁    Horse Nettle
⦁    Huckleberry: Leaves, berries
⦁    Hyssop & blooms
⦁    Jasmine blooms
⦁    Jerusalem Artichoke
⦁    Juniper: Twigs/branches
⦁    Kale (can cause gas)
⦁    Kohlrabi (can cause gas)
⦁    Lemon Balm
⦁    Lettuces (not iceberg)
⦁    Mango (in very limited quantities due to high sugar content)
⦁    Maple: Twigs/branches
⦁    Melon (in very limited quantities due to high sugar content)
⦁    Mint
⦁    Mulberry: Twigs/branches
⦁    Mustard Greens & flowers
⦁    Oregano
⦁    Parsley
⦁    Peas: Vines & flowers
⦁    Raspberry Leaves
⦁    Romaine Lettuce
⦁    Spruce: Twigs/branches
⦁    Strawberry (limit berries due to high sugar content) & plants
⦁    Sunflowers: blooms & seeds (seeds should be limited to a once a week treat)
⦁    Tarragon
⦁    Tatsoi
⦁    Thyme & blooms
⦁    Timothy Hay (generally the best price & quality in bulk amounts)
⦁    Turnip & tops (can cause gas)
⦁    Wild Carrot (limit root due to high sugar content) & tops
⦁    Wild Lettuce
⦁    Wild Rye

If kits (FYI kits is short for kittens. Baby bunnies are called kittens just like baby cats.) were raised with their dam who was fed live foods, they will be well acclimated to eating live foods & a slow introduction period will not be necessary. If you rabbit was fed a mostly pelleted diet you will need to introduce fresh foods slowly as too much too fast can cause diarrhea. A rabbit that is used to fresh foods can easily be fed a big handful daily.  If the rabbit doesn't finish what you gave him & the food has become wilted or soiled with with urine, feces or wool, remove it & toss it into your compost pile. You will be able to determine which fresh foods your rabbit enjoys & what quantity of fresh food is suitable. Do not replace pelleted food with fresh food. Fresh foods are in addition to pelleted food. You may be able to reduce the amount of pellets your bunny eats if your rabbit is safely consuming large quantities of high quality hay & a wide variety of nutritious live foods.

Never feed a rabbit avocado, onion, garlic, chives, chocolate, cookies, cakes, candies, iceberg lettuce, pits, seeds from fruits (apples, peaches, etc.), cherry tree bark or twigs, mushrooms, coffee, caffeine, nuts, raisins, products containing artificial colors or dyes, or dairy products. Sadly, this includes some treats advertised for rabbits. Always read the ingredients first.

Grooming:

Angora grooming tools consist of a small pet grooming brush (slicker), a small-tooth comb for combing out facial mats, a double sided comb for harvest wool & getting at any mats that form close to the skin, a small pair of scissors for cutting out mats, & pet nail trimmers or dykes. A blower is an optional item that is great for blowing out dry skin, loose hairs & other debris (make sure you do it outside). If you are raising show rabbits, you will likely want to get a blower. Angora rabbits should be gently brushed daily or at minimum once or twice a week. Regular grooming's keeps their coats free from mats, cleans up debris, enables you to catch problems sooner, & helps reduce the risk of wool block thanks to the removal of loose hairs. Show angoras need to maintain the density & length of their wool coat. Special grooming techniques, including the use of a blower, are used to open up the coat & to keep as much hair as possible on the rabbit. Using a blower once a week is usually sufficient for a rabbit with a quality coat. Blowers can be found in dog grooming catalogs & shops as well as online. It is very important to regularly groom your rabbit to keep her free from mats & tangles if you intend to use her wool for spinning or felting. It is also a humane way to treat your rabbit. No rabbit should suffer with painful mats because their owner doesn't feel like taking the time to properly groom them.

Harvesting Wool Fiber:

Most angoras will naturally shed their coats 3 - 4 times a year (approx. every 90 days). The German Angora, Giant Angora & Hybrid Angora typically do not molt their wool like the other breeds, so shearing the rabbit is necessary. You can shear your rabbit using clippers &/or blunt nose scissors. Other angora breeds typically can have the wool pulled or plucked by hand when the rabbit starts to molt. The hair should pull easily & not require force to remove. If it hurts the rabbit, the rabbit is not ready for wool removal & you should stop & try again in about a week. An even removal of the bunnies coat will help it to grow in evenly which will help reduce mats. An uneven coat with different  patterns of growth can easily tangle. Ideally, you want to remove the old coat before the new coat comes in.

Nail Trimming:

Angora rabbits need their nails trimmed regularly. If nails are not properly trimmed on a regular basis they can grow too long getting caught in the floor of their home. Long nails can cause broken toes & ripped off bloody nails. The longer the nails are neglected, the longer the quick will grow making it even harder to keep the nails at a more manageable & safer length. Nail cutters for cats work well, you use them just as you would for a cat or dog. You can also use dykes.  As long as you do not cut the quick, the rabbit will be fine. If you accidentally cut the quick, styptic powder or cornstarch can be applied to stop the bleeding.

Fur Mites:

Fur mites are commonly found in Angoras. They appear as dandruff in the wool. They are a small parasite that borrows under the rabbit's skin. This condition can cause itchiness, scratching & wool loss. Fur mites are easily treated with Ivomec, Agri-mectin, Durvet Ivomectin, or Revolution. Here is a dosage chart for mite medications. I have not found an organic method for treating fur mites.

Fleas:

Fleas leave little black specks in your rabbits fur along with less noticeable white specks. The black specks are flea waste (feces), the white specks are their eggs. Fleas are a jumping parasite with a hard body. Fleas feed off of a rabbits blood by biting. The bites are extremely itchy. Use the same methods for treating fleas as you do fur mites. Please see the Fur Mites section directly above this section.

Worms:

Rabbits can get worms. As a worm preventative add food grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) to the rabbits pellets. You want to add just enough to lightly coat the pellets. Adding the DE to a new bag of pellets is the easiest rather than adding it to each feeding. DE can be purchased at most feed stores or ordered online.

Ear Mites:

If you rabbit develops a crusty material inside the ear canal, it is likely ear mites. Rabbits with healthy ears free from mites are clean with no visible debris. Over the counter ear mite drops labeled for use on dogs & cats can be placed in the ears once a week until the mites are gone. If you are raising your rabbit naturally, organic olive oil mixed with a few drops of neem oil  placed in the ears once a week until the mites are gone should do the trick sans chemicals.  Be sure to hold the rabbit securely.  It is easier if you have help.  You do not want to get the treatment on the rabbit. You want the treatment to get as deep into the ear as possible. Once applied, gently squeeze the ear to help disperse the treatment as deeply & evenly as possible, then stand back! Once you let go the rabbit will shake his or her ears trying to remove the treatment. Keep a cloth handy to wipe up any excess. If making your own organic treatment, buy a empty ketchup squirt bottle, it works great for squirting oil in the rabbits ears. Note: If you are treating your bunny with any of my recommendations for fur mites (scroll up), this will also treat for ear mites.

Wool Block:

Wool Block is also known as GI Stasis. The natural self-grooming process for an Angora rabbit is the same as for a cat. They lick their coats to keep it clean. When their coats start to shed, they will ingest more loose fibers than they do when they are not in molt. Unlike a cat, a rabbit cannot regurgitate the fiber from it's stomach. A large wool build up can clog the rabbits digestive system & intestines. When this happens the rabbit will stop eating & drinking because he or she already feels full. If left untreated, the rabbit will die. One sure sign of wool block, besides a loss of appetite, is when the rabbit's feces become very small & dry.  They may have strands of wool running through them connecting them together, known as a "string of pearls" due to the appearance. The stool of a healthy rabbit is large, round & moist. In extreme cases, defecation & urination will cease all together. Therefore, you should always pay close attention to how your rabbit is eliminating. Secondly, if your usually happy & playful bunny all of a sudden becomes lethargic & loses his or her appetite, he or she probably doesn't feel well.

The first thing to do when you suspect wool block is consult a veterinarian who specializes in rabbits. If that is not possible, immediately take away the rabbit's pellets & feed him or her more hay. Adding a little frozen pineapple juice to his or her drinking water helps increase stomach enzymes. If that doesn't work give the rabbit olive or sesame seed oil by feeding it with a syringe. Turn the rabbit on his or her back with his or her head raised up a little to reduce the risk of choking. Administer one full syringe full of the oil twice a day. If the rabbit stops drinking water you will need to administer water via syringe as well. If there are no significant changes after 1 1/2 days, you should cut or shave the fiber off the rabbit & continue force feeding him or her. You can also try mixing some of the oil, a little pineapple juice, & water with rabbit nutrition powder to aid digestion & to provide vital nutrients. This bunny "smoothie" will likely need to be fed via syringe.

Wool block is a serious, often fatal condition. Prevention is much easier than treatment. Providing your rabbit with unlimited hay along with daily grooming's is the best preventative measure you can practice. 

Weather:

Angora rabbits are susceptible to heat, drafts & wetness. During the winter make sure they are well protected from wind, rain, & snow. Angora rabbits do remarkably well in the cold thanks to their warm coats provided they are protected from the elements. During the summer if the temperature is over 85F, put an ice bottle or frozen ceramic tile in their home. An ice bottle is a two-litter soda bottle filled with water & frozen solid (note if using a plastic bottle it can be chewed. Closely monitor your rabbit). Don't fill the bottle to the top with water! As the ice expands, it can break the bottle. Leave at least 1/4 of the bottle empty. Ceramic tiles are stored in the freezer. Frozen water bottles &  frozen ceramic tiles are for the rabbit to lie on & cool off. Replace them as needed. Other options are granite stones or 
terracotta hideaways. When the temperature is over 92F rabbits can easily die from heat exhaustion if they are not cooled. If possible, the addition of a fan (do not blow the fan directly on the rabbit, allow it to circulate the air in the rabbits space) can be of great help to the rabbit cooling the air around them. Always keep rabbits out of the sun during the summer. They should be kept in a well ventilated shaded location during the summer. Rabbit runs designed to allow them on cool shaded pasture grasses with protection from the elements is a wonderful way to keep the rabbit happy & comfortable. They can spread out on the cool shaded ground which in turn helps them keep cool as well. Be sure to check on the rabbit often to ensure he or she remains in the shade & does not run out of water. Some rabbit owners like to keep their rabbits in air conditioning during the summer. I do not advocate this practice. There have been many a horror story when the power went out or the air conditioning failed resulting in dead rabbits. Allowing rabbits to naturally adjust to the weather by living outdoors is the best way to keep them robust & able to deal with the elements. 

Playtime:

Rabbits like toys to play with. Natural balls, wooden blocks, mini pine cones, empty cardboard packing tape rolls (make sure no tape is on the roll), cardboard tubes, twigs, apple sticks, branches, & pumice blocks are all excellent toys for rabbits. The rabbits will chew on the toys so make sure it is safe as well as free from artificial colors & flavors. You can find many toys for rabbits at the pet store, with the exception to balls & pumice blocks, you can easily provide them with enjoyment naturally - no pet store required.

Providing rabbits with toys to chew provides the added benefit of helping keep the rabbits teeth trimmed. If you don't give your rabbit plenty to chew, his teeth can grow too long causing serious health problems requiring veterinary care. Toys like balls are great fun to rabbits. Toys can be great fun for you as well! Sit back & laugh at your rabbits antics as he or she noses around his or her balls, picks up toys & tosses them, & chews in contentment.

Rabbits need exercise. Time outside their cage in an exercise pen, run or hopping about the house will make a happier healthier rabbit. If indoors, constant vigilance is required. All it takes is a few seconds of inattention before he or she finds his or her way to electrical cords, great grandma's heirloom table, houseplants, woodwork, etc.

Cleaning:

Your rabbits home should be cleaned at a minimum of once a week. Remove old bedding, remove feces, clean all feeders & water bottles. A broom is an easy way to knock most debris loose. Rabbit droppings, bedding, hay, soiled natural toys, twigs & branches can all be composted. You can even use the rabbits droppings (no bedding, hay or other materials) directly in your garden without having to compost them first. The pelleted droppings act as Mother Nature's time released fertilizer.

Calcium present in the urine may build up where your rabbit urinates. If this happens a solution of white vinegar & a strong bristled brush will help dissolve & remove the build up. If applicable, you will greatly reduce your labor if you can soak the area in vinegar for at least 15 minutes prior to scrubbing.

If there is a lot of hair build up on his or her cage wires, you can use a blow torch to burn it off (if the wire is not coated). This is also a great way to disinfect. Torching the non coated wire on cages typically needs to be done once a year.

With proper care & attention your rabbit can live a long & happy life providing you with luxurious fiber to spin & felt. With enough skill & gentle care of your angora rabbit, you can even spin directly off of the rabbit while he or she sits contently in your lap.

If for any reason you decide you can no longer care for your rabbit, please know that I will take the rabbit back free of charge, no questions asked. 

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Running Bug Farm Disclaimer: Nothing contained in articles &/or content is or should be considered, or used as a substitute for, veterinary or medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your doctor or veterinarian with any questions you may have regarding the medical condition of yourself or your pet. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website.
101 Comments
Sima
10/1/2015 02:47:24 pm

I am drawing up designs to build a cage for some satin angoras I am getting. I feel very strongly about human living conditions and would like to give them as much room as possible. I have been discounting hutch designs that have a ground access run, but am now wondering if they would be ok. My concern is the fur coming into contact with contaminants. Is this really an issue or is ground access for exercise a good idea?

Reply
Running Bug Farm link
1/2/2017 07:20:36 pm

Hi Sima,

Sorry for the very late response, your comment was put into spam without our knowledge.

Because you are building your own hutches, you can make them as big as you want & give them cubby holes where they will feel safe. When you are home & are able to watch them, ground exercise is an excellent idea. However we don't recommend allowing them access to the ground 24/7 or you will have very dirty bunnies. Don't forget that bunnies love to dig. Your best option is to allow them outdoor time on nice grasses in the shade when the weather is good & it is dry. Be sure to check on them often. The outdoor area you give them needs to keep them safe from predators. Before you put them back in their regular home be sure to groom them.

Reply
Angela
11/10/2015 06:34:57 pm

Thank you for such a thorough yet succinct article about rabbit care. I just bought an English buck and we are having a great time. He is an indoor/house bunny and we are working on litter box training and other behaviors. He's not a chewer like my last bunny thank goodness.

Thank you again!

Reply
Running Bug Farm
1/21/2016 01:55:39 pm

Thank you! We hope you have many healthy happy years with your EA buck!

Reply
Grace Casetta
12/16/2015 09:47:05 pm

Hi, I have adopted 2 angora rabbits but I have no idea of which kind of angora they are. Can I send you some pics? You may be able to help me. I have soooooooooooo many questions and your website is just fantastic.

Reply
Running Bug Farm
1/21/2016 01:47:58 pm

Hi Grace,

Sorry for the very late reply. If you look in the top corner of our website you will see an envelope. Click on that to send us an email :o)

Reply
Maddie
1/11/2016 07:56:11 pm

Hi I just got a French angora and she seems happy and runs around but has bunches of mats on her from the person I got her from and I was wondering if you know good ways to give "baths" to her. She also had pee burns but I have taken care of that. (She is a inside rabbit)~ Thank you

Reply
Running Bug Farm
1/21/2016 01:53:45 pm

Hi Maddie,

Sorry for the late reply. We have been meaning to do a post regarding angora neglect. But have been very busy running the farm. Your comment reminds us how important it is for us to find the time to address this topic. You do not want to bathe your rabbit. You will need to very carefully groom her, working out the mats. You can finger comb, use a wide tooth comb & use scissors. When using scissors make sure you always know where her skin is. It is very easy to accidentally cut it. Once you have her all cleaned up, be sure to groom her regularly to avoid excessive matting. If you have any other questions or problems, please let us know.

Reply
Grace
1/14/2016 12:11:59 am

Can I feed fig leaves to my angora rabbits?

Reply
Running Bug Farm
1/21/2016 01:59:44 pm

Hi Grace,

We do not recommend feeding fig leaves to your bunny. Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) is toxic to bunnies.

Reply
Donna
2/4/2016 08:46:44 pm

Hi, I just recently adopted an angora rabbit- I have no idea what kind she is. I'm learning how to groom her and how to work out the mats carefully. My biggest concern is all the fur around her butt- her poop gets stuck in it and it smells and Its not very clean. any suggestions? should I trim the fur around that area?

Reply
Running Bug Farm
2/9/2016 07:58:16 am

Hi Donna, Congratulations on your new angora bunny! Use the blunt nosed scissors we recommended in this post to safely trim around her genitals. It is very easy to accidentally cut the bunnies skin, so get some help holding her if you can. Always make sure you know where her skin is before you cut. Never pull the fur as this will lift the skin as well as the fur, increasing the odds of cutting her. If you do accidentally cut her, don't panic. Put some styptic powder on the wound if needed & let it heal.

















Reply
Nicole
2/15/2016 08:46:40 am

Thank you for the information. I just adopted 2 Angoras last week. I'm loving them! I see you talk about apple branches a lot. We are starting an orchard but it will be done years before we have abundance of apple branches. But we are in Texas and do have peach trees. In fact I should have pruned them a month ago. Can they eat them?

Reply
Running Bug Farm link
2/19/2016 11:13:13 am

Hi Nicole,

Branches from stone fruits: cherry, plum, peach, apricot, etc. are toxic while attached to the tree but not after they’re cut and dried (a month or more). To err on the side of caution, we do not feed our rabbits any of these branches & do not recommend it.

Reply
Leanne
2/19/2016 10:37:08 am

My female German angora has not come out of her enclosed area for a day. She appears to have stopped eating (her kale and hay have not been touched) and has some runny stool on her butt. I washed her off, any suggestions?

Reply
Running Bug Farm link
2/19/2016 11:17:38 am

In situations like this, you should get your bunny to a vet who specializes in exotic animals. Most regular vets do not have enough experience with rabbits this is why you need a vet who handles exotics. If you are certain she is not eating, has diarrhea & is lethargic, you don't want to wait to make a trip to the vet. Diarrhea can be fatal.

Reply
Maree Hamming
2/26/2016 01:50:49 pm

love your website and your fabulous advice great for sharing and caring . thankyou

Reply
Running Bug Farm link
3/3/2016 05:12:27 pm

Thank you!

Reply
G
3/21/2016 02:37:05 pm

Hello. Could you contact me privately by email dh_jax@yahoo.com I took in an English angora rescue yesterday and while I'm familiar with care as far as grooming and feeding needs etc and have had rabbits a long time, I have never seen one with a case of ear mites as bad as this one. I am looking for the Ivomec dosage info to treat the mites and hoping you can help. I'd like to try something more natural but I have no idea how long this bunny has suffered like this and so would like something that will be quickly effective in treating it,
Thank you

Reply
Running Bug Farm link
3/23/2016 06:25:49 am

Hi G,

Normally you wouldn't use Ivomec for ear mites. Using over the counter ear drops for cats works well:

"If you rabbit develops a crusty material inside the ear canal, it is likely ear mites. Rabbits with healthy ears free from mites are clean with no visible debris. Over the counter ear mite drops labeled for use on dogs & cats can be placed in the ears once a week until the mites are gone. If you are raising your rabbit naturally, organic olive oil mixed with a few drops of neem oil placed in the ears once a week until the mites are gone should do the trick sans chemicals. Be sure to hold the rabbit securely. It is easier if you have help. You do not want to get the treatment on the rabbit. You want the treatment to get as deep into the ear as possible. Once applied, gently squeeze the ear to help disperse the treatment as deeply & evenly as possible, then stand back! Once you let go the rabbit will shake his or her ears trying to remove the treatment. Keep a cloth handy to wipe up any excess. If making your own organic treatment, buy a empty ketchup squirt bottle, it works great for squirting oil in the rabbits ears."

If you feel you must use Ivomec, this is the dosage:

Ivomec ivermectin 1% .018 cc per lb of live weight. Examples:
10 lbs is .18 cc
5 lbs is .09 cc

We hope this helps.

Reply
Alicia
5/4/2016 06:07:59 pm

Hi Jen,
I have a 12 week old dwarf Lionhead. Would like to purchase EA Appx same age so I can house together and keep on age appropriate diet. Live in California on Central Coast.

Reply
Fran
6/22/2016 04:32:33 am

Hi Jen i have a French Angora female. Was wondering if she had glands under her chin when she is outside she rubs her chin against branches and plants. Is the normal.

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Running Bug Farm link
6/22/2016 08:28:06 am

Hi Fran,

What you are describing is known as "chinning". It is a completely normal behavior. All bunnies have scent glands under their chins. They do this to mark territory via their scent. This activity is very noticeable when putting a bunny in a location he or she has never been in before or hasn't been in for a long time. Their scent alerts other bunnies that they are in another bunnies territory. Everything that gets chinned is claimed as their property, including humans.

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Claudia
7/25/2016 01:11:33 am

Hi,
I am getting an Angora bunny next weekend and is now preparing for her arrival. Was just wondering in terms of toys and entertainment stuff what should I get? Also as she will an indoor bunny would a cat pet bed alright for sleeping in? I think I have got food sorted.

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Running Bug Farm link
7/25/2016 08:33:11 am

Hi Claudia,

If you scroll up in this post you will see a section titled "Playtime". In this section we list items we recommend to keep your bunny happy & active. There are also links for some of the items. If you have any problems with any of the links, please let us know.

We don't recommend a cat bed. Bunnies love to chew & dig. It is highly likely the bunny will chew/rip up the bed. Even though they can be litter box trained, they may still urinate & defecate anywhere including a nice pet bed. A better option is a woven grass mat that the bunny can lay on & safely chew. When it's destroyed simply replace it with another one. A hidy hole where the bunny will feel safe would also work as a place to sleep if the bunny chooses. It also acts as a place they can feel safe any time of the day. You can use a cardboard box, nesting box or make your own out of wood.

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FaerieDogmother link
9/3/2016 06:36:25 pm

I have 3 rescued English Angoras. I've been using EM-1 with great immune benefits. A nice addition. Trying to find someone who sells an organic pellet w/natural vitamins- seems impossible. All are synthetic which are not healthy for a variety of reasons, body can't process then and one even shuts down body's ability to utilize vitamins from food! Do you know of anyone who makes healthy high-protein organic pellets in small batches ?

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Running Bug Farm link
9/5/2016 07:24:05 am

You can find the organic feed company we order from at our Resources page: http://www.runningbugfarm.com/resources.html We've been using this feed for our Angora rabbits for many years with excellent results. If you do not feel this type of feed is suitable, prior to pelleted feed folks typically fed their rabbits a diet of extremely high quality mixed grass hay, whole oats & fresh leafy greens & grasses.

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Carolyn Neff
10/9/2016 10:10:31 am

Can you train these rabbits to a litter box?

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Running Bug Farm link
10/10/2016 11:07:45 am

Hi Carolyn,

All rabbits can be litter box trained. The only thing different you will want to do with an angora rabbit is use a litter pan that will help keep their wool clean. This is the litter box we use for our angora bunnies: http://amzn.to/2d7lUfn

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John Aldinger
11/24/2016 10:46:33 pm

Thank you very much your website is a great resource.

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Running Bug Farm link
11/26/2016 08:21:19 am

Thank you!

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bobby sue
12/20/2016 08:20:06 am

thanks for the information

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Faerie Dogmother link
1/2/2017 05:59:10 pm

Hi, I try to do everything holistically and organically for my animals. Two comments:
1. I've had some luck using diatomaceous earth topically on skin mites. Important to be very careful and watch dust. 2. I can not find any good pellets on the market (GMO free, no synthetic vitamins, unnecessary additives, etc) but in halting pellet feeding, I find their fur is becoming frizzy and less pretty. Do you have any advice on adding in higher protein without relying on these inferior pellets?

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Running Bug Farm link
1/2/2017 07:27:47 pm

We are glad to hear you have found DE to be helpful in treating fur mites! Unfortunately it has been ineffective for us. This is why we use the non organic methods of treatment mentioned in our post. You can find the organic feed company we order from at our Resources page: http://www.runningbugfarm.com/resources.html We've been using this feed for our Angora rabbits for many years with excellent results. If you do not feel this type of feed is suitable, prior to pelleted feed folks typically fed their rabbits a diet of extremely high quality mixed grass hay, whole oats & fresh leafy greens & grasses.

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Elaine
5/23/2017 07:12:54 pm

New to English Angoras and bunnies in general...... recently adopted 4 young Angoras and I have to say they are high maintenance pets but amazingly worth it!!!! So very sweet and playful they beg me to pick them up by crawling up my legs like happy puppies.... I know most bunnies don't like to be carried around but mine do! They are just the best! Love your site so glad I found it!!

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Running Bug Farm link
5/24/2017 10:55:51 am

Congratulations on your new English Angora bunnies! It sounds like they found a good home with you. English Angoras, in our opinion have the sweetest personalities out of all of the angora breeds. We are so glad that you found our post helpful to you!

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Cheryl Thompson
6/20/2017 11:34:55 am

How do you treat a UTI inc English angora bubbies?

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Running Bug Farm link
6/20/2017 12:54:47 pm

Hi Cheryl,

You can usually treat a UTI (Urinary Tract Infection) with D-Mannose Powder http://amzn.to/2swWLEc Administer about 1/4 tsp (1.42 grams) every 2-3 hours with water. For prevention you would typically administer about 1/4 tsp (1.42 grams) once per day.

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cadie
10/9/2017 02:00:06 pm

Hi, I am getting a English Angora rabbit on Halloween from my mom's friend's bunny farm. The rabbit I chose is disabled and i'm very scared about the heat in the summer we get around here. I also would like to ask you if you have any experiance with disabled rabbits.

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Running Bug Farm link
10/10/2017 11:33:18 am

Hi Cadie,

If you scroll up, you will see where we offer tips for dealing with the heat. We have on occasion found ourselves having to deal with a variety of issues regarding a bunnies health. If you are this scared, you might want to consider contacting a vet in your area that has experience with exotic animals (rabbits are often considered exotic).

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Cadie
10/15/2017 09:28:59 pm

I recently visited the rabbit I am getting, and his disabled foot is even worse. We ended up adopting a different rabbit that we will pick up soon. I'm very excited and angoras are beautiful! Thanks for the advice though. Also, do you know what company to get hay from? The last rabbit I had we gave him Timothy hay and it was SUPER expensive.

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Running Bug Farm link
10/17/2017 08:51:13 am

http://amzn.to/2x2e3ud

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Cadie
10/17/2017 02:12:30 pm

Thank you! That was a big help!😄 I am so glad I found this website!
Where are you guys located?

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Running Bug Farm link
10/18/2017 09:21:56 am

West Virginia

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Mel
10/27/2017 11:24:03 am

Have you ever had any problems with possible Pasteurella? If so what do you recommend? I have an English Angora that was given to me.

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Running Bug Farm link
10/28/2017 07:16:03 am

You can vaccinate if you want (http://pavlab.com/pavlab/bunnyvac/order-now-bunnyvac/), if the rabbit already has Pasterella, then you probably wont want to vaccinate. You will need to keep the rabbit quarantined from other rabbits. You can also contact the creator of Bunnyvac if you have any specific questions, via the link provided.

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Mari Presta
11/20/2017 02:51:13 am

Hi, i took in 3 rescue EA’s this week, all badly matted. I’m workin on getting them cleaned up. One doe though seems to not like wire floors, so i put in an old lionhead nest box w wire floor & covered w hay. Id like to build her.. actually all 3 of em, a wood hidey house but.. what size would be appropriate? And 1 enterence or 2 ? It must have wire/hay floor tho or else this doe will just sit in her pee & poo & get messy fast. 😖. Suggestions for a correct sized hidey house? Their cages are 30x36x24. TYIA!
Mari 😍🐇

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Running Bug Farm link
11/28/2017 08:47:13 pm

For a hidey hole, you can use one entrance. You can make it any size starting at about 14.5"Wx10"Dx12"H or larger (not smaller) depending on how much cage space you want it to take up. Keep in mind that they will sit on top of their hidey hole as well. If you think this will be a problem, you can make the hidey hole too high for them to sit on. Cut a hole in the front or make it three sided so they can get in & out. Make sure the wood you use isn't pressure/chemical treated because they will chew their hidey hole. Leave the bottom open so that when they go into their hidey hole, they are still on the floor of the cage.

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Sara
1/21/2018 08:46:41 pm

I am planning on adopting 2 angora rabbits as pets (they will live in an outside hutch, I do not plan to breed or show them). I am working on designing a hutch for them. Do you recommend wire or wood floors? I was hoping to use their manure as compost in my garden but I'm not sure the best way to capture it, and if using a litter tray how can you grab the poop for manure but not the pee? Thank you!

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Runnning Bug Farm link
1/23/2018 08:33:10 am

Congratulations on your new bunnies!
We recommend wire floors. You can rake up their manure once a week & deposit it into your compost. Their urine will soak into the ground.

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Millie Hue link
5/4/2018 07:26:47 pm

I love that you emphasized how important grooming the rabbit is since it will keep the fur from developing mats and tangles which could be used for spinning or felting if the owner plans to. My daughter has been bugging me about getting a pet rabbit ever since she watched a video on the internet about a fluffy rabbit eating. Well, I can't deny how cute it is, so I might buy her one. But I want to make sure that it will be taken care of properly, so I also plan to regularly take it to the experts for grooming purposes since I am also a busy mom. Thanks for the tips!

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Runnning Bug Farm link
5/6/2018 05:37:43 pm

We are happy to hear that our post has been helpful to you!

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Kelly
6/14/2018 03:46:28 pm

I accidentally snipped my bunny's bum while shearing and I don't know what to do. Its my first time having rabbits, so I'm concerned. My bunny isn't upset and doesn't seem to be bothered by it and it's not bleeding hardly at except a little out of the bumhole, but it looks like it hurt to me. Help?!

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Runnning Bug Farm link
6/18/2018 08:04:34 am

Hi Kelly, Is your rabbit bleeding from around the anus or from the anus? It sounds like you cut it, but then you say it is bleeding out of "the bumhole". If your rabbit is bleeding from the anus, you need to take it to the vet. If it is a cut from trimming, how big is it? Small wounds usually heal on their own. A larger wound may require veterinary care. Large or small, you will need to trim the wool away from the injured area so that hair doesn't get into the wound. If you don't feel you need to go to the vet, be sure to monitor the wound in case of infection. If infection occurs you need to take your bunny to the vet. If you cannot take your bunny to the vet, the wound will require twice daily irrigation with peroxide followed by lavender water until the infection clears & the wound heals. If the wound isn't showing signs of healing within a few days, you need to take your bunny to the vet.

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Nicole link
7/8/2018 11:13:58 am

In all my research, I don’t know how I missed your site. I’m so grateful to have found it today though. Our Angora has been with us for exactly a week today. This information is definitely needed and appreciated.

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Running Bug Farm link
7/8/2018 07:37:32 pm

Hi Nicole,

Congratulations on your new bunny! We are happy to hear that our website has been helpful to you!

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Glenda Daniel
3/4/2019 06:31:35 am

Good morning Jen!
Thank you for the brown cotton seeds!

In another note, I’m keeping my 2 angora rabbits inside. I don’t think that won’t last long due to the smell, urine wars and all the around the clock cleaning. As a note they are in our office area!

I’m not sure how to build the enclosure, I read many posts including yours, but I’m still not sure. Would you be willing to post on this site pictures to get an idea?
Thank you!
Glenda

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Running Bug Farm link
3/4/2019 07:08:58 am

Hi Glenda,

An article on housing is already in the works! We will post it once it's complete.

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tyler
3/18/2019 02:36:39 pm

hi i adopted 1 angora rabbit and i don't know what type they are and i was wondering if you can help me with like if i can send you a pic of her and maybe you can tell me what type they are and i really love your website it helps a lot i hope you have a good day goodbye

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Running Bug Farm link
8/14/2019 09:07:56 am

You can send your images via the Contact Us link here:
https://www.runningbugfarm.com/resourcessupport.html

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Assunta
3/27/2019 04:59:07 pm

Hi, I'm about to adopt two French Angoras and I have found this post really helpful! What is the total amount of fresh food you recommend feeding a rabbit per day?

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Running Bug Farm link
8/14/2019 09:05:43 am

This information is listed in this article under the headline: Feeding pellets

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Jessica R.
8/14/2019 09:09:51 am

I am wondering if you would be willing to help me by answering a question. I have three wonderful satin angora bunnies. They are all neutered males. They used to be bonded but once fixed, and separated, they have been fighting when together. They are now living in three separate cages. I would like to rebond them if possible, so they can all be together. Do you think this is possible? I worry that their quality of life is suffering without companionship.

Though they live in separate cages, they each get turns outside of their cages. They have lots of love and care from me. Lots of toys and food. Perhaps I am overthinking it.

Thank you so much for your help!

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Running Bug Farm link
8/23/2019 12:08:33 pm

Normally fixed rabbits can be housed together, although as you have now experienced, this isn't always the case. You can continue to try to get them to re-bond, but this must be done under constant supervision. Rabbit fights can quickly turn bloody & sometimes deadly, so you don't want to walk away & leave them alone, even if it's just for a few minutes.
It's perfectly okay to allow them to live alone. They will not suffer for it. Because you are providing them with time out of their individual cages, plenty of toys to keep them entertained while alone, & most importantly providing them with with your company & attention, they should be perfectly fine living alone.

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Carolyn C.
8/23/2019 12:11:53 pm

Hello. I would love to buy an English Angora from you but unfortunately I live in WA State. I was wondering if you could please clarify something I was told by a breeder in my State? She said English Angoras generally must be sheared. This contradicts everything I have read. Is it just perhaps her specific line of EAs that must be sheared and don't really molt?
Thank you!
Carolyn

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Running Bug Farm link
8/23/2019 12:14:29 pm

The English Angora is a naturally molting breed of angora rabbit. Some who breed strictly for show have worked to try to prevent their EA lines from molting. These rabbits typically need to be sheared. Here at RBF, we breed for wool & show. We want our bunnies to naturally molt, so we do not breed to prevent it; we encourage it. To us, having them molt is part of what makes having their lovely fibers so wonderful. Cut or sheared wool is typically of lower quality.

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Jo
9/13/2020 01:21:31 pm

I have had a rescued 1.5 yr old EA for 17 mos. She is free roam and totally indoors. I keep her wool sheared just 1.5 inches long. She’s very healthy and active, but... I have never noticed her molting in this 17 mo. period! Is this indicative of a diet problem—such as too little protein? (Her pellets are timothy based so not high protein.) She also gets greens and unlimited hays.

Andrea
10/11/2019 09:43:44 pm

Hello - is there any difference in wool quality of does to bucks?
Thanks for any help.
Regards - Andrea

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Running Bug Farm link
11/2/2019 07:02:50 am

No. Quality depends on breeding, not sex.

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A link
10/27/2019 11:54:40 am

Hi there, we got two new angora bunnies and want to sell their fur. Any recommendations? And I am afraid my angoras has fleas, can you maybe give me a link of what to use?

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Running Bug Farm link
11/2/2019 07:05:18 am

You can use the same treatments for fleas as for fur mites. This information is listed in this article under the headline: Fur Mites

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Genny
2/11/2020 03:33:28 pm

I am volunteer at an SPCA. We had an angora surrendered to us over a week ago. We are having an issue with his litter box set up and hay getting stuck to him. They cannot groom him every day. DO you have a suggestion for a litter box set up? If they use a hay feeder what kind of bedding should be used in the pan? Thanks for any help!

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Running Bug Farm link
2/11/2020 03:38:04 pm

Hi Genny,

If the rabbit cannot be groomed regularly, have someone shear him so he doesn't get wool block or mats. This will also eliminate hay getting caught in his wool.

For litter box set up I recommend a corner box with a wire grate so that he can't dig in it. This is what I use: https://amzn.to/2Sincfn I find natural unscented non grain, non seed, or non nut based cat litter works very well. My personal favorite is this wood based litter: https://amzn.to/2SgCTDM. You can also use a paper based litter. I find the paper litters aren't as good with smell & absorbancy though. To encourage him to use his litter box, put his hay feed or treats by it, so that he can sit in the litter box while he eats, this will encourage him to potty where he sits. Once he establishes a place to potty, he will mostly use that spot. I've never had a bunny exclusively use a litter box, but it will great reduce the frequency of needing to clean his entire home.

Regarding bedding, I like to use woven straw mats or hay. This link: https://amzn.to/39rWEhn will give you an idea of the straw mats. Please note that they come in various sizes so you'll need to order what will work for his home should you choose to go this route. Grass mats tend to stay in place better than fabrics, don't make a mess like loose bedding, & give the bunny something additional to chew. Regarding hay, you can use the hay you use for feeding in addition to the hay feeder. The more hay he eats, the better. Some bunnies really get a kick out of burrowing in it. However, if he doesn't have his wool removed, I don't recommend hay bedding as it will create a bigger mess & more work for everyone as he will need to be groomed daily, if not more.

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Nathan Ouwehand
2/14/2020 12:53:43 am

I am building up a hobby farm and I have the ability to follow all your instructions here
But was wondering about a maximum number of rabbits you recommend again this is a hobby farm and will be grooming for the fiber but will also be pets versus like a puppy mill so individually cared for but I. A bigger scale
Judging by many of your comments and the fact you will take back any of the rabbits you sell I am assuming you have quite a few
How do you house them in such a way to be cost and humain to the animals

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Running Bug Farm link
2/25/2020 08:14:25 am

Hi Nathan,

You may want to start out with one angora. If you feel confident and wish to add more, then you can get another in a few months. If you continue to feel confident you can repeat this process until you have reached what you can comfortably handle.


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Flutefingers
6/20/2020 03:14:40 am

This is excellent advice! We adopted a beautiful 3-month-old black EA about a month ago. He's SO beautiful and everyone said let's get another one, etc. But MOM is the one who actually worked grooming into her schedule and routine. MOM is the one doing online research. MOM designed the hutch and bought the lumber. It took them 3-weeks to get it built. Mom is happy with one bunny.
Thank you for this article and web site! BTW, maybe I missed it but what is the lifespan of a well groomed outdoor EA in the tropics? Our temperature range is about 62°-85° but I've seen it get 55° and 88° about once every 10 years.
Thank you again!

Jennifer Anderson
3/31/2020 06:18:40 pm

Hi, we live in a house with lots of other animals. Are there any animals the rabbit does not get along with, that we should make sure never interact with her?

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Running Bug Farm link
4/7/2020 07:18:29 pm

Hi Jennifer,

Any predatory animal can be a potential problem as a rabbit is a prey animal. The best thing to do is make sure you supervise all of your animals when they have access to the bunny. Never leave them alone together. You will have to use your judgement. You can let your other animals learn to get used to your angora by keeping the bunny in his or her home where the animals cannot get to the bunny or terrorize him or her. You can also show your animals that the bunny is family by holding him or her & showing proper & acceptable behavior towards him or her. Just remember, never, ever, leave them alone together, no matter how well they seem to get along.

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Jennifer Anderson
4/2/2020 12:24:29 am

Also, do you know who will buy our rabbit fiber? I have heard that Etsy is the place to be, but I am not sure I like the idea. Do you know if there is an alternative, and who is really going to be interested in buying the fiber? I have done lots of online research, but no one seems to be giving me a straight answer. So, is there a market for angora fiber, and if so, where should I advertise?

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Running Bug Farm link
4/7/2020 07:27:19 pm

Hi Jennifer,

Everyone's situation is different. You will need to decide what works best for you personally.

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Nab
4/13/2020 09:05:05 am

Hello, you mentioned about adult angora bunny's diet in this page. Do you have any guidelines about baby angora bunny's diet and junior angora bunny's diet? I have 1 adult, 2 two and a half months old, and 7 17 days old french angora rabbits. I've been giving the junior ones the same diet as the adult and I've been wondering whether I should give different diet. One of the 17 days old baby rabbit has, what I assumed as, fur mites or fungal infection around its nose and mouth, and on the sole of its feet. I brought the baby bunny to vet and the vet didn't give any medication, only advice to clean the infected areas with cotton and alcohol once every 2-3 days. Do you have any advice to solve the baby bunny's problems?

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Running Bug Farm link
4/22/2020 08:01:52 am

Hi Nab,
I provide feeding guidelines for young angora rabbits at the beginning of this post under: Feeding
Regarding the medical issue, I cannot help you without actually seeing the rabbit. If the vets recommendations are not effective, you may want to consider getting a second opinion from a veterinarian trained in "exotic" pets.

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Nab
5/17/2020 07:32:02 am

Thank you for the reply, I misread the feeding part 😅, I thought that's for junior rabbits aged 4-6 months, and I've brought the baby rabbit to an animal hospital in my city that would have pet specialized in exoic animals as you've suggested ^^
Thank you for that

Nab
5/17/2020 07:32:56 am

*vet

Destiny
5/27/2020 05:10:47 pm

My French angora's urine is a cloudy yellow color, and i don't know if it's normal or what. im kinda worried. :(

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Running Bug Farm link
5/28/2020 10:45:41 am

Cloudy yellow urine is normal for rabbits. However, if you feel there might be something wrong, you can always take your angora to a vet who specializes in rabbits aka an exotic vet.

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Ana
6/17/2020 10:18:31 am

Hi, we are considering getting an angora rabbit or two and are wondering about housing. What kind of cold tempuratures can they tolerate? We live in the mountains in Colorado and so it can be pretty chilly. Our ducks and chickens have no problem outside all winter. We have limited space inside for a large bunny house. Thank you!

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Running Bug Farm link
6/20/2020 02:09:35 pm

Hi Ana,
Angoras can tolerate very cold temperatures thanks to their thick coats. However, they must not be exposed to driving winds. Snow should not be able to accumulate in their home; it needs to be dry with good ventilation. When you pull their wool or shear it during molt, you will want to bring them indoors if the weather is about 50 °F or lower until their coats thicken. It doesn't have to be a full coat. They can usually stay outdoors again after about 1 - 2 weeks. You don't want them to go from having a full coat, to suddenly having no coat outdoors in the cold. Letting them regrow their coat a bit will help, as will putting them outside for short periods of time when the weather isn't too bitter & monitoring them to see how they are doing. Never leave them out overnight with a shorn/pulled coat until it has had a chance to grow in a bit & you are certain they will be okay.

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Running Bug Farm link
6/20/2020 02:33:25 pm

In response to Flutefingers aka MOM on 6/20/2020 03:14:40 am

The average lifespan of Angora rabbit is about 7 - 12 years if properly cared for.

I'm very happy to hear that my article has been helpful to you & that you are enjoying your angora bunny even though their care is a lot of work.

I hope you have many years of joy with your fluffy friend.

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Jo
9/13/2020 01:14:19 pm

Thank you for this outstanding article! I have a spayed, indoor pet English Angora who currently eats a premium timothy-based pellet (~12.5% protein), unlimited hay and 2 cups of mixed greens daily. She’s 8 lbs. and at an ideal weight. I keep her wool sheared down to only 1.5 inches long to help avoid wool block.

If I switch her to a higher protein food, do I need to become concerned as she ages about her consuming too much calcium from eating an alfalfa-based pellet or extruded food? I don’t want to set her up for bladder sludge and other excess calcium-caused urinary illness!

I’m really confused and worried about this issue as everything I read says don’t feed a lot of alfalfa to an adult rabbit. I am willing to PayPal you a fee for your expert advice! Thank you!

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Running Bug Farm link
9/16/2020 08:42:54 am

Hi Jo,

It sounds like you are doing a great job feeding your angora bunny! She shouldn't develop urinary problems if you decide to switch to a higher protein pellet. I don't know what brand you are currently feeding, but I have provided some links to some feeds you might want to look into. They all have more than the 12.5% protein your current feed has.

-Small Pet Select has a timothy hay based pellet rabbit feed has a protein content of 14% (link: https://amzn.to/3c29S70)

-ZuPreem has a timothy alfalfa blend with 14% protein (link: https://amzn.to/2FKQXBO)

-Sherwood has a alfalfa timothy blend with 14% protein (link: https://amzn.to/2ZIb7U0)

-Kaytee has a 13% protein pellet (link: https://amzn.to/2RA4TRq)

-Exotic Nutrition has a 100% timothy hay pellet; no other ingredients, so it is not complete with 7% protein. You could add this in with your regular feed (link: https://amzn.to/35Itb3Z)

-Standlee (link: https://amzn.to/3mBXlw6) has some of the best timothy hay around.

I feed my bunnies both New Country Organics (linked in the blog post) & Manna Pro GRO (available at Tractor Supply, a farm/feed supply store) along with plenty of Standlee brand timothy hay & hay cut from my own pastures.

Personally, I recommend feeding the Small Pet Select pellets with quality hay or the Standlee hay with the organic or GRO pellets. But from your information, you might not need to make any changes at all if your bunny seems happy & in good wool production.

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Jo
9/16/2020 09:45:47 am

I love you! Thank you! I am SO grateful for your time and expert guidance!

I am currently feeding a 50/50 combo of Sherwood’s “New & Improved” Adult Timothy-based pellets and Oxbow’s Garden Select. Now that you’ve calmed my mind about possible urinary problems feeding alfalfa-based pellets, I will look into ALL the products you mentioned!

I had already researched Sherwood’s Professional pellets at 14% and am considering that one. I also love the idea of feeding an organic formula.

Thanks again! And if I can PayPal you for your advice, please email me! You deserve to be compensated for your time and expertise. Wish I lived close to you so that I could visit your spectacular farm and bunnies!

Running Bug Farm link
9/19/2020 06:29:32 am

Hi Jo,

Thank you so much for your kind words. It means a lot to me!

Sherwood is considered by many to be a top quality feed, so you are already making smart feed choices. If you do decide to switch, be sure to mix it in & gradually increase the amount, just like you would when making a food switch with a cat or dog. :)

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Esmeralda link
10/3/2020 10:19:42 am

Thanks for this! I love angora bunnies

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Running Bug Farm link
12/9/2020 06:47:37 am

You're welcome 🥰

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Victoria Gleason
11/3/2020 07:16:06 pm

Just adopted a senior English (7 yr. old) and wonder if she needs any special treatment for her age? Also wonder if her wool production will naturally decrease, she has always been indoors.

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Running Bug Farm link
12/9/2020 06:53:10 am

Hi Victoria,
Congratulations on your new senior English angora bunny! 🎉 You may want to handle her more gently as she is older. Aside from that, as long as you provide her with what she needs to stay healthy & keep her groomed as suggested in this article, she should be fine.
Regarding wool production, I have never noticed a decrease as my bunnies age. Wool production is genetic. It wont matter if she is indoors or outdoors.

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Adrian link
1/5/2021 10:14:12 pm

This is a greaat post

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Running Bug Farm link
1/8/2021 07:20:07 am

Thank you! 😊

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Danielle
8/18/2021 02:35:06 pm

I recently purchased two English Angoras who are now about six months old. I’ve been reaching out to the breeder with some questions but she has not been responding. I have a couple of questions if you don’t mind me asking you. Your website is very informative so I feel like you must be somewhat of an expert and maybe you could help.

My bunnies are house bunnies that I do not keep caged and I feel like this might be the issue with litter box training. When I first got them I kept them in a 4 x 4 playpen for a couple of weeks as to not stress them out and they went in a litter box most of the time. Now that they’re free range bunnies in my house they won’t use the litter box, they pee all over the house, the couch the rugs the furniture right next to the litter box. And they will also lay down in their urine which makes their beautiful for soaking wet.

Also I feed them Sherwood health pellets. Do you recommend the pellets on your website new country organics over Sherwood?

They’re both boys and I got them both neutered but one is a little rambunctious still. He digs on the couch and nibbles a little bit. I bought him all kinds of scratch pads and Playmobil‘s from small pet select but he’s more interested in chewing furniture and digging in the couches.

Any advice?

Thank you

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Running Bug Farm link
8/18/2021 03:29:32 pm

Hi Danielle,
Litter training can be rather challenging at times. The good news is that once you get them trained, they are usually pretty good about using the box. Keep in mind that even when trained, most bunnies never use their box 100% of the time. Once you let them out to roam the house, the smaller space they were originally residing in likely became their home. They usually wont potty where they nest. Letting them out to roam the house tends to result in them going potty out of their box which is now in their home/nest. The rest of your house on the other hand is fair game. To start, put them back into their smaller space & let them readjust to using their litter box. When you feel they are doing well, allow them more room, but not the whole house. Take note of where they tend to potty & put another litter box there. Be sure to put hay with each box. If possible use a wood clothespin to hold some kale or other large leafy greens at the box as well. If you see them using the box, praise them & reward them. A little treat & some cheek scratches are usually sufficient. When you feel they are making progress, you can increase their free space a little more & repeat the process setting up litter boxes & hay where needed. Good luck! 🤞

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    Do you dream about living the simple life?  Your own idyllic farm where the cows moo and the veggies are the best you've ever eaten? I've got a surprise for you, homesteading isn't easy! Join me at my small eco family farm where we stumble often, and learn as we go. This is indeed the good life, but it is also a very hard life that only rewards for that hard work... or not!  Back to the land, it's tough and I love it.Hi there! My name is Jen. I'm a "tree hugging dirt worshiper" who has been organically farming for well over a decade. It never ceases to amaze me at how much I've learned & how much I am still learning. I have studied natural health, nutrition, & herbs for over two decades. Our health & the natural world around us are connected in ways we don't often realize. How we treat the land & animals directly affects us in both body & mind. My goal is to provide others with truly natural humane goods from my own little piece of paradise, & to freely pass along whatever knowledge I pick up along the way. I am grateful every day to be able to have such a worthwhile & fulfilling job surrounded by the beauty & unpredictability of Mother Nature.

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