Angora Rabbit Care - Housing What NOT To Do

Angora Rabbits, Housing: What Not To Do

2/29/2016

English Angora rabbit in a too small, filthy cage without adequate protection from the elements.

What exactly constitutes as abuse in the rabbit world? Well, that would depend in part on the breed of rabbit you are raising. There are rather obvious forms of abuse such as inadequate housing, unclean conditions, cages that are too small where the animal cannot move about naturally, lack of human interaction, etc. When it comes to angora rabbits, there is much more work involved. Oftentimes folks do not understand just how much work these beautiful animals are.

Young English Angora Kit in poor housing.

Rabbits need plenty of space so that they may fully stand up on their hind legs to observe their environment. They should be able to toss themselves on their sides (flop), do binkies, & stretch out. Being able to fully stretch out is very important when it is hot as this position enables them to cool themselves in the summer. When you see your bunny laying on it's side stretched out while in your presence (assuming there is nothing wrong) this indicates your bunny feels very comfortable with you & trusts you.

Another example of inadequate housing.

Rabbits need toys to play with, pumice blocks, apple twigs, & goodies to chew. They need hay & a good quality feed. Just like us, fresh air, sunshine, & shade are all necessary for a good life. They should be allowed outdoors on pasture where they can leap & play. Supervision is necessary in these situations unless you build a permanent outdoor area for them with protection from the elements, places to hide, ensure they cannot dig under their fencing & escape, & protection from predators, aerial & on the ground. If you chose to raise your angora rabbit permanently on pasture you must groom them every day - no exceptions. They will quickly become matted with dirt, feces, & debris. A daily clean up or even a twice daily clean up is strongly encouraged.

English Angora Rabbit in a narrow cage that is much too small.

Even though rabbits are social creatures, you should not house them together. Bucks will fight, kicking & biting at each other for dominance. Kicks with sharp nails can tear the other rabbits skin. Biting is a bloody business. If aggressive enough, they could kill. Does will also fight but they are typically not as violent. It is possible to house does together but is not a good idea. Does that seemingly got alone for months or years could suddenly turn on each other. If you get your rabbits fixed so they cannot breed, they can usually be housed together without issue. A fixed rabbit also tends to have less health problems & lives longer than a rabbit that is not fixed.

This English Angora Rabbit is clearly in need of a serious grooming as you can see the huge mats hanging from under her chin. Her food bowl is just a cut up coffee container. This plastic can easily be chewed & ingested causing serious harm & even death to the bunny.

Daily grooming's of your angora bunny are essential. Not only to the health of your bunny, but it also allows you to bond with your ball of fluff. The more often you groom & handle your bunny the more likely you are to catch problems before they become potential disasters. Bunnies can easily damage toe nails, get sore hocks, & injure themselves if they panic due to predators or loud noises. Regular grooming also means you are less likely to have a matted rabbit. Mats hurt. You want your bunny to view you as a source of pleasure, not pain.

This bunny is clearly terrified of it's owner.

Bucks are territorial & will throw or fling their urine at other males. If housed close to each other you will have urine wars & any bunnies in the range of this war will be covered in urine. It's nasty & avoidable. Do not house your bucks close together. If your buck is one who flings his urine, be sure to have walls up to protect the surrounding area. Most bucks in my experience do not typically fling their urine if they are adequately housed away from other males. Does will also sometimes throw their urine. This is common when they are excited about a buck. Rabbit urine smells horrible & is very difficult to clean. If your bunny is covered in urine, the fur will look ratty rather than a soft cottony cloud. You will also be able to feel the dry urine. It feels rough & sticky. Comb the bunny as best as you can with a slicker brush & get him or her away from the urine flinging bunny immediately. I do not recommend bathing your bunny. A wet bunny can easily get hypothermia & die. You can try sprinkling some organic cornstarch on the bunnies coat & then comb or blow it out. You will not want to harvest this wool for spinning unless you don't mind dirty stinky wool. It is best to slowly comb it out & let it grow out. You will know when the wool is okay because it will once again be soft and clean.

These two English Angora Kits are covered in urine.

For those of you who know me, you know that I have a no questions asked return policy on all of the bunnies I sell. I will take back any bunny you no longer want free of charge. You don't have to explain anything to me, I just want my bunnies to have happy lives. If you ever find you cannot care for, or simply do not want to care for your bunny anymore, please contact me.

Running Bug's Moonstone in his new home. This is a beautiful example of how to treat your angora bunny. Free from mats, ears erect, outdoors on grasses while under supervision. Moonstone is one happy boy.

For how to care for your angora rabbit view my in-depth post on Angora Rabbit Care. I discuss which foods are safe, water bottles, food bowls, feeding, nail clipping, health problems, grooming, housing & more.

I am messaged daily asking if I have any English Angora bunnies for sale. The short answer is, "No." I did at one time have bunnies for sale. After over two decades of raising them, I have decided to retire from them. I do however, still run my Eco farm full time.

Running Bug Farm Disclaimer: Nothing contained in articles &/or content is or should be considered, or used as a substitute for, veterinary or medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your doctor or veterinarian with any questions you may have regarding the medical condition of yourself or your pet. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website.

29 Comments

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Gail Colangelo

2/19/2018 12:13:37 pm

Hi,
Do you wash the Angora wool prior to processing?

Runnning Bug Farm link

2/19/2018 01:28:33 pm

We do not wash our angora rabbits harvested wool. Properly cared for rabbits already have clean wool that doesn't require washing. For more information regarding cleaning wool you may find this post helpful: https://www.runningbugfarm.com/blog/how-to-clean-angora-wool-sweaters-and-clothing#comments

Messa

2/28/2018 04:00:30 pm

Hello, I love all the info you have made available. Thank you for all of your hard work.

I recently purchased two 7 week old English Angora's.
We are in love with them!! They are indoor bunnies. With a litter box. I am concerned their urine is a creamy white color.
The breeder (much to my dismay) I found out was only feeding pellets.
We have them on Timothy hay, pellets & BOSS. Have only had them a short time, yet I'm still concerned about the urine.

Any suggestions? Could it be too much calcium at this young age?
Or it's normal for Angoras?

They appear to be otherwise healthy.
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

Best,
Messa

4/29/2018 01:00:05 pm

Hi Messa,

Congratulations on your English angora bunnies!

First, we want to apologize for the late reply, we didn't receive notification that your comment was posted.

Milky or cloudy pee is not normal for any rabbit, including angora rabbits. It's possible that your bunnies could have urinary tract issues. The milky urine you are seeing could be from excess calcium. The best thing to do in this situation is take your bunnies to your vet so that you can choose the best course of action. Also be sure not to feed them anything high in calcium. You can view our list of rabbit safe foods here: https://www.runningbugfarm.com/blog/angora-rabbit-care Make sure you introduce your bunnies to greens slowly so that you don't give them diarrhea.

Normally, a breeder will keep kits with their dam for a minimum of 8 weeks to ensure the babies get all the nutrition that they need. Some breeders will wait up to 10 weeks. While it is not necessarily considered bad to let them leave their dam as early as 6 weeks, we don't recommend it. We only mention this because you said you acquired 7 week old kits. Leaving their dam early may have contributed to their urinary problems, but without a veterinary exam, it's just speculation.

Good luck!

Kat

9/16/2018 08:30:58 pm

Hi Messa,

I had the same experience, I got an English Angora at 10 weeks, and within a week the urine was cloudy. I was so paranoid and got the bunny to the vet at the two week mark, so at age 12 weeks, still thicker cloudy urine.

The vet said the food I was transitioning to was great and to start adding greens. I have done this, and it's been two weeks, and the urine has not changed. It is very concerning for me.

The rabbit does seem very paranoid when I am brushing her. I try to be gentle, but she absolutely hated being brushed.

Like you, she seems healthy otherwise and the vet report two weeks ago was all good things. The vet just basically said, let it run its course.

Cassidy

7/26/2018 12:22:22 pm

Hello!

I have an angora / lopp cross and I'm not sure what the other is.

They get along great and are happy healthy bunnies! I'm wanting to get them a hutch, and put them outside.

They get plenty love and attention and I'm positive it wont change by moviing them outside. They already periodically go outside when ever I'm out side doing garden work or what not.

My question is, I put them outside, in the shade, plenty of water. It was a nice day and they seemed to be enjoying themselves. They were in their cage, up off the ground. I left them out there for approx 3 hours un supervised.

They nearly had a heat stroke. I sat with them for the remainder of the day and night giving them water with an eye dropper and keeping them cool by an AC vent.

Im scared to get them a hutch and put them outside, worried it could happen again. What could I do to prevent this? Or is this a breed thing?

Running Bug Farm link

7/26/2018 04:58:34 pm

Hi Cassidy,

Without being able to see the set-up you provided for them, it is hard to say what caused them to suffer from heat stroke. The best we can offer is our thoughts & a few suggestions in hopes that they are helpful to you. In our over a decade of experience exclusively raising angora rabbits, we have never had a case of heat stroke housing them outdoors in the shade, even in 95-100 degree heat with full coats. We are not saying it is not possible, just that it hasn't happened to us with our set-up.

Our rabbits are under a canopy of trees in hutches that are about three to four feet above the grass which is also cool thanks to being in the shade. Our hutches are open on one side with three sides closed. We make sure that the open side isn't exposed to direct sunlight or constant wind, driving rain, snow, etc. They have a wire bottom & resting pad which also assists with airflow & keeps their coats clean. A hidey hole is attached to the hutch that they can go in as desired. When the weather permits, we put them directly on pasture in a 'play pen' with a fabric shade covering to keep the sun off of them. We check them often, move them, or put them back into their hutches as needed.

Is it possible that at some point during the three hours they were outdoors they could have been in the sun? Normally, if an angora rabbit is in the shade & has the cool earth beneath them with a open & airy environment, they will not suffer from heat stroke. If the environment you provided them was indeed correct, they may have become overly playful & as a result overheated. Even in extreme heat, we have witnessed our angora rabbits laying on top of each other even though they have plenty of room to spread out.

You didn't mention the ages, sexes, or if your rabbits are fixed. Another possibility is if you have young rabbits that have not been fixed. They will initially get along very well, but are likely to start to fight once they become hormonal. Does usually mount other does. A buck will relentlessly chase a doe & mount her. Two bucks will often fight, sometimes causing serious injury. All of this activity will easily overheat most bunnies.

Glenda Daniel

1/25/2019 12:46:57 pm

Hi,
I just found your page and so far this is the most helpful site about angoras! What would you recommend for fur mats? Also how much do you brush the buns ( until they get feed up) any recommendations?
Thank you!
Glenda

2/16/2019 01:43:35 pm

Hi Glenda,

We recommend reading our in-depth Angora Rabbit Care article. You can view it here:

https://www.runningbugfarm.com/blog/angora-rabbit-care

Vicki

8/14/2019 09:14:16 am

I have an English Angora ready to come home soon so I am looking at cage options. Everything I have read recommendeds a wire bottomed cage so that's what I'll be getting. My biggest question is size. What is a good size for an English Angora? Thank you for the help. I just want him to be happy and healthy.

8/23/2019 08:43:00 pm

Hi Vicki,
The bare minimum size we recommend for a hutch/cage is 2'x3' (two feet by three feet) with a height of no less than 24" (twenty four inches). We build our hutches with the roof on a pitch so our lowest point is 24" & the highest point averages at about 28". This gives them room to stand up on their hind legs if they want & they can also do binkies. You can always build them a hutch/cage larger, they will love any amount of additional room you can provide.

Staci

8/23/2019 12:17:50 pm

Hi There,

I am very excited to get started raising English Angoras for fiber, and I am talking to a breeder in CO who has had 5 English Angoras returned to her after the purchaser was not able to keep up with the grooming. She told me the bunnies are under 2 yrs old, and that she had to shave them to the skin when she got them back because they were so matted. She says they have about 2" of growth now and are doing well. When I asked about the type of hutch they are in, she said they are all in separate cages that "have wire floors so the pee and poo runs through."

So here's my question: Do you think I would be able to acclimate these "older" buns to use a litter box and to have more run-about space indoors? Should I wait and start with babies instead of adopting these? There are 2 does and 3 bucks, none are neutered or spayed. Can I allow them to play together in a small yard for a short time, or is that taking too much of a chance. They are all from the same litter, so breeding is not something I would want to do.

Thanks so much for any info you can give me.

8/23/2019 12:20:13 pm

You will most certainly have your work cut out for you with that many Angora bunnies. Make sure you have enough free time to care for them every day before committing. If you feel you can handle this large commitment, you can train them to live indoors with a litter box. It will be a lot more work to house them indoors, but the plus is you will likely be more aware of issues if/when they pop up.
You cannot allow bucks & does together unless your goal is to breed them. Bucks cannot be together as they will fight. Buck fights often turn bloody & can even be deadly. Does can fight as well, although it isn't usually as dangerous. With does it is more of one establishing dominance over the other & then things usually settle down. However, it is wise to keep all intact bunnies separated as they can fight at any time & there is always the possibility of serious harm. Because you do not wish to breed them, getting them fixed will solve a great many of these problems. Fixed bunnies tend to live longer, can often live happily together, & are less prone to health problems & other issues.
You should also spend a good deal of time with these 5 adults to see if they have good personalities prior to committing. If they are calm, friendly, & easy to handle & groom, you will likely be happy with them. On the other hand if they are skittish, grunting, aggressive, do not wish to be touched, bite, etc. you may want to consider younger bunnies that you can raise yourself in hopes that they will mature into relaxed, friendly animals who enjoy your company.

8/24/2019 08:42:15 am

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. As it turns out, I am not going to be adopting any of the 5 Angoras, but rather 3 babies from another breeder.
I've seen the great info and photos on your site regarding how not to house your bunnies, but I'm wanting more specific info on what would be the best housing. I am looking at keeping the bunnies indoors in our newly converted garage to multi-purpose room, though not free-run of the house, and in cages/hutches that will give them the most room to run/jump. I want their living quarters to be easier to clean and keep the buns clean as well. Should they have a wire floor with a tray under, or no? I've read it can be hard on their pads, but others say it is the best to keep Angoras clean. I plan to take them out periodically to a "play yard" within my yard, but I assume they need more of a run area attached to a cage or house, that can be accessed everyday, right? About how large should that area be? These are English Angoras, so small. Do you have photos I could see of your bunnies living arrangements?

I'm confused about whether it actually is a good thing to fix bunnies. You make some good points about the health and disposition being better of those that are fixed, but others tell me that it can be very dangerous for the bunnies, and they are prone to infection. Also, that the fixing must be done by a vet who is well-trained and specializes in rabbits. I hate to think of the bunnies having a shorter life span because they weren't fixed, but I'm not sure what is the best thing to do. Your strongest suggestion?

Thanks again.

8/24/2019 09:20:56 am

Hi Stacy,
I'm sorry for the delay in getting a blog post up regarding proper housing. It is a work in progress & I don't want to publish it until it is complete. It is taking much longer than anticipated due to delays in buildings, changes, upgrades, etc.
Regarding wire bottoms, they are the most ideal for any angora rabbit because of their long wool. It helps to keep them much cleaner. A non wire floor will likely result in a filthy angora bunny. However, it sometimes can be hard on their feet. I link to some resting mats in the Angora Rabbit Care post that you may want to look into.
The bare minimum size we recommend for a hutch/cage is 2'x3' (two feet by three feet) with a height of no less than 24" (twenty four inches). My husband builds our hutches with the roof on a pitch so the lowest point is 24" & the highest point averages at about 28". This gives them room to stand up on their hind legs if they want & they can also do binkies. You can always build them a hutch/cage larger, they will love any amount of additional room you can provide.
I have never encountered a fixed angora suffering ill effects from the procedure. However, in most cases, you must go to a exotic vet for the greatest chance of success. Generally, a fixed rabbit is calmer, with less health problems, & lives longer. In most areas, it can be pretty expensive to get them fixed. In the end, it's your choice. If you want them to have the greatest chance of successfully living together peacefully, & don't want babies, they need to be fixed. My "strongest" suggestion is if you are going to house them separately & never, ever mix them or you think you will want to breed them in the future, don't worry about getting them fixed. On the other hand if you want to allow them to be together, and you are certain you don't want to breed them, get them fixed.

Sarah Smith link

12/29/2020 01:15:07 pm

My daughter picked out a very fluffy rabbit. I think it's an Angora, so I really appreciate your article. I think it would be good to get a good grooming service as well as following your tips about housing.

2/20/2021 12:03:32 pm

Hi Sarah,
Congratulations on your new fluffy bunny! I'm glad to hear my articles are useful to you. When looking for a groomer, you will want one who is familiar with grooming angora rabbits, not just dogs & cats. Good luck. 🐰

Karen Barney

4/2/2021 12:37:55 pm

Hi I just adopted 3 male angora rabbits (they are brothers so are already bonded) my previous rabbit had a digging box with shredded paper in her cage (she was a Holland lop) and she really in joyed digging, but when I got the new rabbits I notice that the paper in the box was getting tangled in there fur. It is also creating a big mess! I am wondering if you recommend using a digging box for them and what material you put in it?

4/3/2021 07:17:07 am

Hi Karen,
Congratulations on your new angora bunnies!
I don't give my angora rabbits digging boxes, but I do let them out in pens on pasture when the weather is good. While they are in their homes, digging boards are great options: https://amzn.to/3fH9heO
Aside from amazon, you may also find them on Chewy or if you are crafty; make your own.

Keri

4/14/2021 08:47:20 am

Hello,
We took in 2 angora does eight months ago. They are adorable and very sweet. They are indoor bunnies with individual very large cages with a grated bottom and pull out tray for cleaning. They also have a play yard to run free and get exercise both inside and outside. For the most part they use their crates for potty but will occasionally urinate while running free then run through it and mop it up with their fur. Their cages are cleaned daily. We groom them every day and attempt to keep their undersides clean but they are constantly soiled and stinky. We trim their fur the best we can but They do not allow us to flip them over and are becoming more reluctant to engage with us do to the constant stress of grooming. Any suggestions on how to keep them clean and not so offensively stinky?

4/18/2021 04:53:01 pm

If not placed on their backs & handled regularly when they are young, it can be much harder to convince them that they will be okay in such a vulnerable position. However, you do still have options.

-Tuck the bunnies head behind your right arm with their back resting along & being supported by your right forearm with their bottom held firmly in your right hand. The hand holding the bunny must be very firm & your arm must keep the rabbits body as stable & as comfortable as possible while also keeping the rabbits head & body secure. With your left hand, groom the areas you can reach. Repeat for the other side.
-Rest the bunny on his or her back between the V of your thighs while you sit. The bunnies head will rest at your knees with the ears pinned between your knees. Both of your hands are now free. You can place one hand on the belly directly above the bunnies legs to reduce kicking. You can also try reversing this position with the bunnies head at your torso, ears between your thighs.
-Position a grooming table at chest height & place the bunnies ears between your chest & the table with the bunny on his or her back. You can rest one hand on the belly & use the other to groom.
-Place the bunny on his or her back & hold the bunnies ears as gently as possible with one hand & groom as best as you can with the other hand.
-Sit & hold the rabbit to your chest & sort of hug him or her with his or her side facing you. With your free hand, groom any areas you can.
-With the rabbit facing your right, align your left forearm so that it is parallel to his or her body; near the bunnies belly. Hold the bunny close to your body using gentle but firm pressure & lift the rabbit up enough so that you can reach his or her belly with the comb in your right hand. Reverse the process to do the other side. To groom the chin & chest use the same positioning but gently lift the head.

If none of these suggestions work solo, try to get someone to help hold the bunny. It may take up to 3 people. Be as calm & gentle as possible. Being prey animals, bunnies scare very easily & can break their backs if they struggle too violently. Your handling of them needs to be as consistent as possible. They need to feel safe & secure. At the end of each grooming session, be sure to give them a little treat.

Alice link

7/6/2021 08:04:51 am

Hi, I hope you still use this web site. I have an angora (I purchased her at an auction when she was 4 months old, now she is 7 months or so) and she has a couple quirks....she refuses to drink out of the water bottles, but prefers a water dish, ugh, makes her all wet in the front, what can I do? I love the fluffiness all over her body but this is nasty in front of her to say the least. How do I get her to use the water bottle? She has 6 kits that are a week old and I prefer that they to use the water bottle when they begin hopping all over the cage. Also, when can I take her back out of the cage to groom her? I assume it is not a good idea while the babies are so young. Thank you!

8/9/2021 07:08:38 am

Hi Alice,

This is a very active website even if I'm not always up on blog replies. For that, I apologize.

I hope that you were able to resolve your water bottle issue with your angora rabbit. If not, remove the water dish & only provide the water bottle. Throughout the day, go to her bottle & tap the ball with your finger so the water drips out. She will smell it & if she is thirsty she will go over to it. Keep doing this throughout the day until she figures it out. After that, keep an eye on the water level to be sure she's drinking. If you think she stopped, tap the ball again & see if she shows interest. You will need to use your best judgement in determining if you think her water intake is healthy. Angora rabbits usually drink more in hot weather & less in cold. They also drink more if they are fed a mostly pellet & hay diet with very little fresh greens. Lastly, a nursing doe tends to have higher fluid requirements & usually drinks more.

You can groom her after a week of giving birth. Just take care around her nipples.

If you haven't already done so, I strongly suggest reading my 'Angora Rabbit Care' article for in depth details on how to care for your bunny.

I wish you the best of luck! 🐰

Jami

8/9/2021 06:42:06 am

We are wanting to get into angora rabbits we live in Oklahoma where it can get over 100 fir like six eight weeks in the summer in a bad year. With a week or two above that. Like 105 - 115. We have an old horse barn, we were thinking on in closing on of the stalls and putting the cages into. They would have daily access to a play area outside in good weather and on the floor in the stall in bad weather. Or possibly even brought in the house for some play time. You mentioned to not air condition the room were they are housed. So what would you suggest for this situation? We were thinking an air conditioner and maybe set it at like 80 on the hotter days so they won’t get used to it being really cold from the a/c. What are your thoughts?
Thank you

8/9/2021 06:48:57 am

Hi Jami,

My number one concern with air conditioning is that it can fail. When this happens, angora rabbits tend to die. I've seen it happen many times with other folks indoor bunnies. I'm not talking about a pet bunny in a house inside living with everyone. But bunnies in closed barns or similar.

Keeping them outdoors in shade at all times where they have excellent air flow is usually what keeps them safe in the hotter months. It doesn't tend to get over 100 here, but averages in the 90's with very high humidity. My rabbits get hot, but have always been fine. You can also trim off all their wool which will be of great benefit to them in the heat. The suggestions in my Angora rabbit care page utilizing frozen bottles, tiles, etc. can also be helpful. If your barn is your only good option, you should first determine how hot it gets inside the barn. If it stays cool enough, you don't need air. Running a fan/s also helps with air circulation. If it gets too hot & you have to close it up to run the AC, having 2 units running would offer back up should one unit fail. This back up is worthless should the power go out. In that case an automatic backup generator that kicks in during a power failure would be desirable. If you work from home, it's a good idea to check on the unit/s & bunnies several times a day to ensure the unit is working properly & the bunnies are comfortable.

Personally, I don't feel comfortable with bunnies locked up & dependent on AC to stay cool. Granted, everything could be fine & you never have an issue, but for me, I wont risk it. If you want to bring them in your home with you during the hottest weeks, that would probably be the safest option. In most situations a home takes longer to overheat than a barn should failure occur esp. if the home is shaded.

Bunny x

6/22/2022 06:13:42 pm

Good afternoon,

This is by far the best page when it comes to Angora breed. For that, I thank you!

I have gotten one angora bunny.. I did ask the breeder if she is best housed in pair (I plan to keep her indoor) and was told it’s not a good idea. I am concerned that one bunny might get lonely and sad..

Can you suggest tips on how to bond with 1 bunny and most of all do you recommend keeping 1 angora bunny as indoor pet?

Thank you for your time reading this message xx

6/24/2022 06:33:51 pm

Congratulations on your new angora bunny & thank you for your kind words!

I recommend all new or soon to be rabbit parents read my post on Angora Rabbit Care: https://www.runningbugfarm.com/blog/angora-rabbit-care#/

If you want to keep your rabbit indoors & help prevent loneliness try to house your bunny in an area of your home that you use most often.

Be sure to spend plenty of time holding, playing & cuddling with your bunny, similar to as you would if you had a new dog or cat. A small treat for good behavior & after grooming can assist with bonding. I provide a list of rabbit safe foods in the link above.

A safe space for play is strongly recommend. If you let your rabbit hop about freely be sure to supervise her at all times. Bunnies are very good at getting into trouble. They love to chew & dig. You will also want to litter box train her to reduce accidents during free time.

Ashley

8/2/2023 06:53:26 am

Hi! I want to say thanks for being one of the best angora resources on the internet I have found!!! I live in Raleigh, NC and recently acquired a French angora for my spinning ventures and as an added pet for our kids and family.

I’m constantly trying to learn more so I can give our girl (Niblet) the best life. I was wondering if you could help me in figuring out the best type of litter to use for odor absorbency. We just let our rabbit start staying in a cage in the house, but the pee stinks sooo bad. She uses the litter box (one with a grate I got on Amazon), but the pee stinks so I want to know the best litter to use!!!

Thanks so much and I hope you have a great day!

Kind Regards,
Ashley S.

8/2/2023 06:58:08 am

Hi Ashley,

Thank you for your kind words!

My personal litter choice is the Okocat brand. Nothing truly handles the smell, so I make sure to clean/replace the litter a lot. Okocat is natural, biodegradable, non toxic & unscented making it really safe for bunnies & kitties. I order it from www.Chewy.com. The boxes they sell are Zero Waste! You can get it in different types, super soft IE fine to pellet shaped.

Jen

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Angora Rabbits, Housing: What Not To Do

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