The Great Cholesterol Myth: Why Lowering Your Cholesterol Won't Prevent Heart Disease - And The Statin-Free Plan That Will by Jonny Bowden, PHD, CNS & Stephan Sinatra, MD, FACC

I consider myself rather knowledgeable when it comes to health & nutrition. I've been studying it for 2 decades. The thing is, while I knew the majority of what was said in this excellent book (nutrition/diet info. much more so then information on medications), having it laid out so clearly & by real medical doctors made some points so much more clear to me.

For example, I think by now everyone knows sugar is bad for them. This book shows us that it is so bad, we are better off if we never consume a single tiny crystal. The harm sugar is doing to our bodies almost immediately after consumption is frightening. I mean, gee, I know sugar is bad. But hey, all things in moderation right? Wrong. It seems with sugar there is no safe amount.

I have been loosely following a combination of a low FODMAPs/AIP diet to help manage my Endometriosis (I know this isn't about the heart, but it is about inflammation, so it's relevant). I found Sara Ballantyne PhD to be very helpful in this regard (she has several books if you want to look them up). Even she advises against sugar, but in general, I never felt the real danger from sugar. I thought, okay so maple sugar, black strap molasses, & honey. These are suggested because they have trace nutrients compared to table sugar. But hey now! I am sensitive to FODMAPs so what's the big deal with some certified organic sugar so I don't have GI issues? Not only that, but boy oh boy organic maple sugar crazy expensive.

Now I learn that it's the fructose in sugar that makes it so darn bad. In fact according to this book, there is only a 5% difference in fructose content between table sugar & high fructose corn syrup. We've all been warned of the dangers of HFCS, yet the authors of this book flat out say the difference between table sugar & HFCS is so slim, they are essentially the same, IE, they are both equally dangerous.

Now onto my middle aged husband. He has borderline high blood pressure. He is overweight, but not obese. I try very very very very hard to get him to eat healthy. Thanks to my AIP lifestyle, I tend to make a lot of lower carb meals. My breakfast is fish baked over lemons with a sprinkle of sea salt & a little organic butter flavored coconut oil (I can't digest the protein in dairy, another symptom of my autoimmune disease). My husband sometimes does okay with eggs & toast. Other times awful with sugary coffee & sugary kids cereal. When I do my Sunday bulk cooking for week long ready to eat meals they will consist of things like meatballs made using turmeric, no breads or starches, no crumbs, etc. & a big batch of spaghetti squash rather than pasta. Or stew with no white potatoes or noodles.

My job is running my Eco farm full time. I grow & raise at least half of everything we consume. We also hunt. You'd think we'd have super healthy diets. Sadly, it's not working out that way. My husband wants his carbs & his sugar. For example he will add a generous serving of pasta to what I make or dump a bunch of store bought spaghetti sauce, BBQ sauce, or ketchup onto a low carb meal I made. All these processed organic foods contain sugars.

I totally get the sugar love. I'm bad about it myself (for sweets only), but after this book, I'm determined to get off the sugar death trap. I do understand why he eats these things. It's why everyone eats them. They are deliciously addictive. I try to educate him. He thinks he eats healthy. I don't want to fight. I'm scared of him having a heart attack or stroke. I'm not even sure if surviving such an event would get him to change his diet. I hope I never have to find out.

My 'Husband Solution' is to work on the supplements listed in this book to give my husband something to counterbalance his destructive eating habits & hope for the best. I already found a multivitamin on amazon by Dr. Sinatra that I subscribe & saved to. I'm working on ordering other supplements as well.

My husband isn't lazy. Having a farm makes that impossible. It's the diet that is so bad. Everything is organic, but really, so what? It just has less chemical crap in it than the absolute trash that is called conventional food. It may seem like I've gone on a lot about sugar, but in the book, the authors do too. It is a very big deal.

The book does also discus medications, diet, lifestyle factors, mental health etc. I've never been a fan of medications so this was pretty easy for me & none of the information was the least bit surprising. Frustrating to be sure. But there is a real pigheadedness with conventional medicine.

Conventional Doctors are total pill pushers. It's their solution to everything, even when it doesn't work. It's why I stopped going to the doctor. I know a time will come when I need a conventional doctor. That will be when I break a bone or have a tumor. But for overall health & well being, I only trust conventional doctors to make me feel worse or even possibly create more health problems than what I arrived with.

This book is refreshing because it focuses on Integrative Medicine. When I was in my 20's this wasn't recognized like it is now. I had to battle with my health insurance to get coverage for nearly anything of this nature, yet Integrative Medicine doctors are what actually helped me get better. Conventional Medicine failed me every single time. Oh sorry, they didn't fail me once. I broke my arm when I was 5. I'll give them that & only that.

Even if you think you eat great & don't have high blood pressure or any sort of cardiovascular concerns, you want to read this book. I have low blood pressure. Aside from my autoimmune disease I appear to be very healthy. But this book shows me that I could do better, much better. In fact, if I don't I could have problems or could already have problems & not even know it, like diabetes.

This is real folks & it's scary. But the excellent part is that we can actually do something about it! It's not all doom & gloom. There is a solution & it doesn't take prescription pills, it takes you!

The Complete Guide to Pickling: Pickle and Ferment Everything Your Garden or Market Has to Offer by Julie Laing

As a full time Eco farmer, I was hoping for more recipes that didn't require refrigeration. Nourishing Traditions was my first introduction to fermentation which gave me the bug to learn more & lead me to Wild Fermentation. From there, I was making my own & never refrigerated anything. I'm still here, so I guess I did something right. I'm also not against canning something that has been pickled/fermented. It does kill some of the beneficial bacteria, but enough remain to have a healthy product, plus, the fermentation process increases the bodies ability to digest the food, so again, more nutrition even canned.

Another issue for me at least is that many recipes will only last a day or two in the fridge or even one or two weeks. Some last months, others up to a year (usually canned). Most though, seem rather perishable & need refrigeration. Like the author, I live in a tiny log cabin. Mine is a historic late 1700's log cabin. I have no room for anything. A second refrigerator has to reside in my main living space to store my finished ferments. As it is, we sometimes have to use an extra freezer & it sits next to the couch. It doesn't create a comfortable living space. I feel like I'm in my barn. I do what I can to put up the food I grow in ways that do not require an extra refrigerator or freezer.

I was initially excited about the title claiming I could "pickle and ferment everything my garden... has to offer". Nope. Almost, but not everything. The main thing I had in mind was parsnips. Maybe I'm crazy & parsnips aren't suitable for pickling or fermenting. I don't know. It's just that when you say, "everything" I'm expecting everything!

I am also disappointed in the lack of photos. I'm not talking food porn. I'm talking about photos that help the reader understand the process. For example, when discussing various molds, how about photos showing the types of molds? Photos in the troubleshooting section would be very helpful to newbies. I understood what the author was talking about thanks to experiencing these things, but what about the folks just getting started? Pictures help; a lot.

Chapter Two is Quick Pickles. All recipes are refrigerated to keep fresh.
The Japanese Style Pickled Cucumbers are delicious, but only hold for a mere 3 days in the refrigerator. It's so disappointing because you have to keep making it much too often for my tastes in order to continue to enjoy it. The Carrot and Daikon Radish is another I have tried & enjoyed. It will hold in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks. Which is an improvement.

Chapter Three is Fresh Pickles. This includes recipes for both canned & refrigerated produce. I will be trying the Water Bath-Processed Beets & Pickled Chive Blossoms next spring. I am in the process of making the Pickled Garlic Cloves which is super simple & hopefully turns out tasty (lasts months refrigerated). There is also a recipe for Sushi Ginger that I'm excited about. I love Gari & it will keep up to 6 months.

Chapter Four is Fermented Pickles. To me this is where the fun is really at. You have your traditional Sauerkraut, Apple and Cabbage Kraut, Classic Kimchi, etc. I made the Preserved Lemons which lasts 6 months in the refrigerator. What a delicious twist. I'm a citrus junkie & totally bonkers over lemon, so I am a bit biased, but I do hope you try it. There is even a Short Fermented Potato recipe. I wont be trying it, but this was a first for me. I don't eat nightshades, but for someone who does, it might be fun to try out.

Chapter Five is Relish, Hot Sauce, and Other Condiments. I haven't made anything out of this section yet. And I doubt I ever will. If you like it hot, she has a Fermented Red Hot Sauce & Chile Paste that might be right up your alley.

Chapter Six is Sweet and Fruity Pickles. There are some very interesting recipes in this. I like the option to put up some of my farms sweets without resorting to making jam or just canning whole/sliced, but none of these will last as long as I'd like. Miso Brined Apples (keeps 1 week refrigerated), Jerk Spiced Banana Pickles (keeps for weeks refrigerated), Sweet Spiced Black Berries (keeps for only 3 days refrigerated!), Sweet and Tart Blueberries - this uses lavender. I will be trying this out over the summer when my blueberries are ripe. It keeps for a couple of weeks refrigerated. I do wish it kept for longer.

Chapter Seven is Pickled Fish, Eggs, Beverages, and Other Odds and Ends. This is another fun section, but most recipes are to be consumed right away which is very disappointing. There are two pickled egg recipes. I love pickled eggs. They are so convenient. I think of them as a farmers fast food. Healthy & satisfying. They last about 10 days in the refrigerator. She also includes Shrubs. They are the closest thing to soda before soda. Shrubs are a lot of fun & they last for a couple of months refrigerated. There is also a Switchel recipe. This is great any time of the year, but right now with Covid19, it's even more reason to have some at hand. It utilizes apple cider vinegar, maple syrup, ginger & lemon. So good. Super strong, but so good. Make up a batch of elderberry syrup to go along with it & keep your immune system strong. Switchel lasts about a month refrigerated (so does elderberry syrup), but you should go through it long before then.

I would also like to mention the physical book itself. The binding is a nightmare. I had to break the binding for virtually every page in order to get it to stay open. I love books & abhor damaging them, but with this book I had no choice. The spine is now a twisted mess. The publishers need to really think about this. Spiral bound or hard cover with binding that allows the book to lay flat would be much more realistic & appropriate.

While this isn't all I could have hoped for, it does have enough good recipes to help me add some variety to my crops which is always nice. If you have no experience with pickling or fermenting, you might want to try a book with more photos to help you out first, then go with this one. Or what the heck, you can always just jump right in with this book & see where it takes you.

How To Go (Almost) Zero Waste: Over 150 Steps to More Sustainable Living at Home, School, Work, and Beyond by Rebecca Grace Andrews

This book turned out to be a huge disappointment. There is so much I don't like about this book. I can go through it giving endless examples & I'll do just that, but first, to keep it simple, you don't need this book. What you need is Google & The Environmental Working Group. The author tells you to go online for virtually everything. You don't need this book. Don't do it. You'll just be adding more waste. So far out of all the Zero Waste books I've read, I loved An Almost Zero Waste Life by Megean Weldon. Even the book has an Eco friendly feel to it. That book is totally worth getting. It is my absolute favorite so far & has earned a spot on my shelf.

At first this book was off to a good start.

In chapter one she argues why we should all try to produce less trash. "The World Counts website cited these statistics: In the first four months of 2020,... 2 million people died from outdoor air pollution,... 1 million died of indoor air pollution... more than 1 million people died from lack of access to clean water." Let's think about that, 4 million people or 1 million people per month died. It got me thinking of the COVID19 situation & it seems to me a polluted planet is the bigger killer. Not that I don't take COVID19 seriously, but it's certainly worth thinking about. The author also briefly discusses recycling & I was glad that she mentioned how recycling isn't as great as folks seem to think it is. After all recycling takes a lot of resources & not everything can be recycled. The best thing to do is to avoid created waste in the first place. Obviously we can't be 100% Zero Waste, but every little thing we do to create less is that much more we are doing to benefit ourselves directly, the health of our planet, & every living thing on our planet.

In the ultra short chapter two she gives 20 excellent swaps you can do to reduce waste.

In the rest of the book she slowly starts to loose me. She pushes going Vegan. That's great if it works for her, but that lifestyle isn't realistic for some of us & I am one of those people. If it works for you, that's wonderful! I was Vegan for many years. My health plummeted. I went AIP & my health improved overnight. I am not exaggerating. My needs aside, my irritation with this goes far beyond the "meat pollutes" diatribe. CFO meats absolutely do pollute. They are horrible. No animal should ever have to live that way. Pasture raised however, does not pollute. Pasture raised is the exact opposite. It is good for the environment. The planet needs pasture raised animals! That is the natural way of life. What kills me is the author mentions pasture raised & still insists the planet is better off if you don't eat any meat, even pasture raised. It's biased. I live next to a huge farm (by huge I'm referring to the amount of land) that raises beef cattle. They are all pasture raised. It's beautiful. It doesn't smell. The animals are never given grain. They rotate happily from pasture to pasture. They are not crowded. I walk past them in the morning, see the steam rising off their backs, listen to the sound of their breathing, the sound as they bite some grass & chew, while calmly watching me as I walk by. I've witnessed them giving birth in the pasture. They even play as they get older. How gently they are cared for. I am fortunate to have such a beautiful view from my own pastoral farm. If you are wondering, I do not raise meat animals. I do run my own Eco farm full time. Nothing is more beautiful or backbreaking than living on the land.

She discusses going organic, avoiding GMO's, supporting local farmers markets, cooking your own meals, using reusable bags, changing the cleaning products you use, etc. All good things. But remember, go online for in depth ideas & suggestions. Insert eye roll here.

She mentions the importance of avoiding fragrance/parfum. I am constantly looked at like a nut when I avoid a product that contains fragrance. Here's why, "...'fragrance" can be a combination of 3,1000-plus chemicals." Need I type more?

I got the impression the author doesn't even practice a lot of what she preaches. She makes a suggestion then tells you that you can find ideas online. The entire book is like this. In one spot it was blatantly obvious that a shampoo bar she mentioned, she only used once or twice. In it she said "...my hair felt a bit gritty as I rinsed..." Meaning, she used it once to try it, but didn't like it. Why even mention a product you don't like? I got the distinct impression that the author doesn't use bar shampoo. I know I don't. I hate it. I have super long straight hair. I wash it every other day with the bulk sized Kiss My Face Whenever brand of shampoo that I subscribe & save to. Not Zero Waste, but a step up to be sure. Yeah, you can totally use bar shampoo. If you like it, go for it.

I don't mean to bash at something I practice & believe in, but this book really rubbed me the wrong way. I've been living a greener life for nearly 2 decades. I have already done so many of these changes. They didn't all happen at once. It was gradual. Just like eating organic was gradual. Run out of something, replace it with organic or green. Eventually over the years you'll have made a complete 360 of your life & you wont even really notice it until you go to someone else's house & see the endless plastic containers, the constant trash, the noise & the chaos. A Zero Waste lifestyle goes hand in hand with Minimalism. We are bombard everyday to buy, buy, buy. With Fast Fashion, new electronics, "keeping up with the Jones's" etc. When you come right down to it, it's pretty stupid. People have so much stuff, they buy storage space to store more stuff. It just keeps piling up. Then with all the toxins in our foods, air, & water, our health is going down the toilet too. For our physical & mental health, minimalism & zero waste are so much healthier for ourselves & our planet.

I also want to point out that Zero Waste or Minimalism is hardly for the "privileged." You spend so much less, because you buy so much less. Even if you go organic, you'll still have more money because you will be reusing products, cooking at home, gardening, mending, upcycling, etc. I am not rich. Oh my goodness no. Not even close. I am only mentioning this because I noticed the P word in a amazon review & was rather shocked by it. Spending less doesn't mean spending more unless you choose to spend more!

If you've read this far, thanks for that! If you really are itching for a Zero Waste book, do yourself a favor & get the book I mentioned at the very beginning of this review. It's totally non judgy. The author offers realistic ideas & even recipes all in a really cute book. This book on the other hand, is just a repetitive slog telling you over & over to go to so & so website for whatever the author is suggesting you do. No recipes, no fun. Totally uninspiring. If you still are curious about this book, you might want to see if your library carries it first. If you actually like it, then you might want to buy it.

Butterfly weed plants are easy to grow by seed, but may not produce blooms for two or three years. Once established, butterfly weed is drought tolerant and blooms dependably from year to year. Also, keep in mind that butterfly weed has long, sturdy roots that make transplantation very difficult, so locate the plant in its permanent place in the garden.

Growing Guide

Butterfly Weed is a herbaceous, perennial milkweed plant in the Asclepiadaceae family that attracts butterflies to the garden with its clusters of bright orange yellow blooms that are rich with nectar & pollen.

Botanical Name: Asclepias tuberosa

Start indoors (for Spring planting):

1. Place seeds in moist seed starting soil.*
2. Cover & leave in the refrigerator for 2 months.
3. Remove from the refrigerator 8 weeks before the last expected frost, & place in a warm spot under grow lights. Do not let seeds dry out.
4. About 21-30 days to emerge once temperatures are above 70°F.
5. Once the seedlings have two sets of true leaves, pot them in potting soil if growing in a container or in garden soil if you plant to allow them to grow in the ground, & continue to grow inside.
6. Once all danger of frost has passed, harden off the seedlings for a week, then transplant them into the garden.

*Your container will depend on how many plants you wish to grow, space, &/or supplies on hand. For example, you can repurpose a small, cleaned yogurt container with a lid. Or you can utilize a seed starting flat with a lid.


Sow outside (direct sow in the Fall) preferred method:

Soil Temperature For Germination: 71°F
Size: 12" - 36"
Zone: 3-9
Sun: Full
Water: Dry to Medium*
Soil: Slightly acidic or Neutral (6.0-7.0); Well draining
Seed Planting Depth: 1/8-1/4"
Seed Spacing: 6-12"
Days to Germination: 21-30
Thinning: 1-2'

*For the first year after planting, in addition to environmental moisture & rainfall, plan to give your butterfly weed plants approximately 1" of supplemental water weekly. Once established, butterfly weed plants are drought tolerant & may only need monthly watering in very dry climates.

Seed Savers:
Butterfly weed plants may not produce blooms for two or three years. Once established,  they bloom dependably from year to year. Let the plants develop seed pods. Harvest the pods just as they start to open, or cover the pods with fine netting to prevent the seeds from floating away once the pods fully open.

Insect Control:
Do not use pesticides, even the organic approved (OMRI) types. The plant hosts many butterflies, including monarchs, so expect the leaves to be eaten. For insects such as aphids, use your fingers to squish them dead. Wear gloves to avoid staining your fingers. Be gentle with tender buds on the plants & look out for monarch eggs. Spraying water at the aphids really doesn't help. Diligent squishing & killing of the aphids seems to be the most efficient method & is entirely non toxic.

Fertilizer:
Do not fertilize! Fertilizer can harm the plants or make them leggy. Let the sun be their fertilizer.

Rich in American history, Nankeen has been grown since the Civil War.

Nankeen is a naturally brown cotton with short fibers. The lint doesn't fade like some colored cottons. Plants should produce a dark copper colored lint that can become brighter after washing. Nankeen Branches tend to be longer & thinner, with leaves that are more lobed than other cottons.

It is reported to grow well in poor dry soil. In my experience, I don't feel this holds true. I had a early summer drought & while it did survive, growth was stunted until the rains returned. Once rainfall levels returned to normal, the plants finally started to put on thicker folliage, height, & flowers. 

Nankeen is also reported to be hardier & with slightly better insect resistance than other cottons. I noticed no difference regarding aphids on my Nankeen plants verses any of the other heirloom cottons that I have grown. In my experience, they all get aphids & they all survive with them as long as they are not overrun when they are still small. I do not have problems with any other pests in my area (I am not in the cotton belt). To deal with aphids & the ants who milk them when the plants are young, I use diluted neem seed oil. Note that if you put undiluted neem seed oil on your plants, they will likely cook in the sun just like food in a hot pan of oil. The plants may survive such harsh treatment depending on how big & healthy they were before you applied it.

Nankeen likes to drop it's branches as they gain weight with bolls which are high in water. What I mean by drop it's branches is the branches tend to peel off at the trunk. Some hang on by a thread & will survive, others do not. I often prune these branches because it makes maintaining the grass that grows between my rows difficult to maintain if I don't. If you don't need to maintain the space between your rows, you may wish to let them lie. Keep in mind that when folliage touches the ground, it encourages bacteria, so be sure to keep an eye on your plants health.

In order to deal with Nankeen's fragile limbs, I stake my plants with small metal fencing stakes (3-5' usually work well) rather than traditional garden stakes. I can get pretty high winds in my area. The fence stakes keep the plants from being being badly damaged during severe summer weather.

After dealing with an early summer drought, I later had a early frost. The drought dramatically slowed the growth of my Nankeen plants and the early frost caused further problems as it was too early to harvest. The plants needed several more weeks of growth that the frost was trying to prevent. I did manage to harvest the bolls, but yields were very low & I personally am not a fan of the very short fibers that have resulted. I often say, each year after growing a particular cotton that I am unlikely to grow it again. I sometimes think it's just due to farm girl exhaustion. By this time of year, the days are getting much shorter, temps are dropping & I'm still bringing in the harvest after six months of straight back breaking labor.

With all that said, I don't think I will grow this cotton again. Sea Island Brown has been one of my favorite brown cottons to grow. For green, I am partial to Arkansas. If you are curious about growing Nankeen don't let my lackluster harvest results sway you. We all have different micro climates. You may find that Nankeen is one of your favorites!

Growing Guide

Cotton is an annual plant that requires a long, warm growing season to mature properly. It needs full sun. In zones 8–10 it can be sown directly after the last frost. In zones 5–7, treat like tomatoes, start seed indoors & transplant out 4–8 week-old seedlings after last frost. Seed germinates in 7–21 days at 70°F. Plant 20–32" inches apart in rows 6' feet apart. Plants start flowering in mid-summer. Bolls take a few more months to mature; warm late summer weather is necessary for a good crop. Plants grow to 4-5' feet tall.

130 - 180 day Annual

Direct Sowing: Sow seed in a light, well drained, slightly acid to neutral soil. Supply soil generously with compost or other organic matter, especially in clay. Sow no deeper than 2 - 4 times the seed diameter. Do not sow in waterlogged soil or heavy clay. Harvest in 180 days.

Transplanting: Use a good quality sterile seed starting mix. Sow pots or flats 4 - 8 weeks before transplanting. When several leaves have developed, harden off the seedlings by placing them outdoors in direct sunlight for no more than an hour. Gradually increase the outdoor exposure over a period of several days. Transplant to the garden after the last frost. Harvest in 130 days from transplant.

Harvest: Wait for bolls to split open before harvesting.

Seed Savers: Isolate varieties by 1/8 mile for home use, or 1/4 to 1/2 mile or greater for pure seed.

Weeds & Water: Weed barrier fabric helps to both suppress weeds & keep more moisture in the soil where the plants need it. I have tried a wide range of weed barrier fabrics from free to more expensive & have found the 12 year fabric by Dewitt performs the best.

While my focus is the Musquee de Provence (Cucurbita moschata) pumpkin, my growing guide can be applied to any pumpkin.

Slightly flattened deeply lobed pumpkin shaped like large wheels of cheese. Some folks refer to them as cheese wheel pumpkins or fairy tail pumpkins. They start out green and over time ripen to a rich orange brown. The edible flesh is deep orange in color, thick, and very flavorful. Pies made with the Musquee de Provence are a beautiful orange color. It is also well suited for soups, breads, and more. I even add some to my pumpkin goat milk soap and to my cats food.

Musquee d Provence originates in Southern France during the late 1800's. When fully ripe, they typically weigh about 20lbs each.

Growing Guide

Botanical Name: Cucurbita moschata

Start indoors: 3-4 weeks before the last frost
Sow outside (direct sow): 2-3 weeks after the last frost
Soil Temperature For Germination: 70-95°F
Size: 10-20' sprawl
Zone: 3-10
Sun: Full
Water: Moist, Well Drained, Fertile
Soil pH: 6-6.8
Seed Planting Depth: 1"
Seed Spacing: 6-12"
Days to Germination: 7-14
Thinning: 2-3' in rows 4-6' apart
Days to Harvest: 100-110

Pumpkins are very thirsty plants. They need about 1" of water per day. I have successfully grown pumpkins during a severe drought. I had to hand water each plant thoroughly every single day. I focus on the main hub of the plant. During a drought, there are a lot less fruits. Drip irrigation is great if you can afford it. Pumpkin foliage can get diseases when wet. The fruits can rot if too wet as well.

If the soil your maturing fruits are resting on seem excessively wet due to poor draining soil (pumpkins prefer moist, well drained soil), you can try to prop up the fruits to get them off of the wet ground. Sometimes cardboard will work. Although this will also give squash bugs a great place to hide. Squash Cradles can be purchased that gently keep the fruits off the soil. While these can be a bit of an investment up front, squash cradles can be re-used over many growing seasons.

Aside from being heavy drinkers, pumpkins are also heavy feeders. You want a compost rich, moist, well draining soil for optimal results. If you can grow your pumpkins on a gentle incline, this will greatly help to keep water from pooling. The more optimal your growing environment is for your pumpkin plants, the less extras you will need, making growing easier and more affordable.

Insect Control:
Floating row cover, barrier netting, or remove by hand as needed.
I find that floating row cover is much more durable and lasts longer. The downside is that it's not easy to see through and harder to water through although it is permeable. Barrier netting is easy peasy to see through and water through. The downside is that it is easy to damage and not as long lasting.

Note: Row cover and barrier netting can only be used on young plants. You will need to remove when the plants flower so that they can be pollinated by insects.

If necessary, protect leaves and flowers from deer and protect the fruits from wildlife. With my rural environment, protection is a must. As a result I've been using deer fencing for nearly two decades. I haven't found anything that works better to keep all my crops safe, including my pumpkins.

Seed Savers:
Pumpkins easily cross pollinate with other squash. To ensure true seeds, either plant only one type of squash per growing season. Or cover each blossom so that insects cannot access the flowers and hand pollinate the blossoms yourself, then re-cover until fruits begin to form.

Harvest:
When mature, not earlier. The color will typically turn a deep orange-brown with threads of green. The stems and rinds harden. The rind will sound hollow when you gently knock on it. If a fingernail pressed into the skin resists puncture, it is ripe.
Carefully cut the fruit off of the vine, do not twist or tear. Leave 3-4" of stem to increase storage life.

Cure:
Place in a critter safe, sunny spot for about a week with temperatures and humidity both around 80-85°F.

Store:
Ideally in a cool dry root cellar if possible. If this is not possible, choose an area that is as close as possible to this environment. 50-55°F for about 2 to 3 months.
I successfully store mine in a cool dark corner of my cabin on the lower floor. I stack them about 3-4 fruits high.

Enjoy:
Like other hard-skinned winter squash, pumpkins can be stored whole, roasted, made into purées, and frozen. You can also roast and eat the seeds.

Note of Caution: Home canning is not considered safe for pumpkins. I roast, purée, drain with a yogurt cheese maker (pumpkins have a lot of water), put into quart sized glass mason canning jars, remove as many air pockets as I can, cover with a bit of waxed paper (to reduce freezer burn), put on a lid, then freeze*.
*Don't forget to leave space in your freezer jar for expansion. I usually leave at least 2" so the jar doesn't crack.

I like to use quart size jars for freezing. They are easier for recipe sizes and thawing. For making pumpkin pie, I will take out two quart jars, drain a second time, then use the amount I need for baking. If I have any left over, I re-freeze in a smaller canning jar (either a pint or jelly depending on what I have left).

Growing Inchillium Red soft neck garlic is surprisingly easy and relatively low maintenance. It also stores longer than hard neck types of garlic. If you choose to use weed barrier cloth, it is even easier. Generally, garlic is planted in the fall for a early summer harvest. My little West Virginia Eco Farm is located in Zone 6b. You can zero in on your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone here. I plant my crop in October and try to harvest it by the end of June or no later than the first week of July. Weather permitting. The only problems I tend to have are that it almost always rains a lot around the time I need to harvest. The bulbs do not require much watering the closer it gets to harvest time. It is actually better if conditions are on the dry side. Too much rain or over watering can cause the bulbs to rot.

Choosing your garlic seed to plant is very important. If you ordered from a seed supplier, depending on the amount you ordered, you may choose to plant every single clove to get you started. If you have more than enough cloves like I do, it pays to be a bit more choosy. Select only the biggest and healthiest cloves that you have. While it's not a guarantee, it will greatly increase your odds of getting larger sized bulbs out of your harvest. Save the smaller cloves for eating if you can.

By October I have mapped out where I will be planting the years garlic. I like to try to keep from planting my garlic in the same spot for at least 5 years for good crop rotation. Sometimes it's shorter, but never shorter than 3 years. Summary: Crop rotation is 3-5 years for good pest and disease control.

I prepare the beds by ensuring at least one has a new application of compost. I tend to choose a second bed that didn't have compost added to it that season but still has relatively loose and fertile soil. My reasoning is that if there are any imbalances in either soil type, I have given myself a little protection in not potentially loosing my entire crop. I also try to plant each row in different locations rather than side by side for the same reason. Regarding crop success, I haven't had any major differences in either bed type in the decade plus I've been exclusively growing Inchillium Red soft neck garlic. However, I do sometimes notice a difference in the density of the leaves. I always have variety in the bulb sizes. This happens in both rows. Another occasional difference is bug damage. One section of a row may be rather hard hit with bug damage, while the other row will be free and clear. I always plant more garlic than I need to cover any losses. I do not use chemicals or any other treatments to deal with pests.

On the subject of pests, I give my wonderful neighboring farm some of my garlic abundance. They store these bulbs in Diatomaceous Earth aka DE. This quickly resolves any Dry Bulb Mites (Eriophyes Tulipaie or Aceria Tulipae Keifer) and Onion Maggots (Delia Antiqua) that may have gotten into the garlic heads. This method also vastly increases storage life. Not only that, it also reduces the likelihood of planting infested bulbs in the fall; effectively cutting off the pests lifecycle.

When my beds are ready for planting, I pull out my Dewitt weed barrier cloth that I have dedicated to growing garlic. I have used a lot of different brands and types of weed barrier cloth. All they created for me was a headache and a financial loss. These cheaper brands have been nothing but a time suck and cash drain. Some of them only lasted two weeks before starting to deteriorate. This caused a heck of a miserable time trying to clean up the degrading bits. Dewitt has become ridiculously expensive for the past four plus years. I used to get it for less than half what I'm seeing it sell for now. It is my hope that the prices will stabilize in the near future. Thankfully, if properly cared for, it has a 12 year life. While mine have yet to reach that age, some rolls are a little over half that age. I have no complaints.

A head of garlic contains the garlic seed. The seed are the individual cloves within the head. You want to gently break apart the head until you have nothing but loose individual cloves. Do not remove the papery husk from the cloves - they protect the cloves from rotting.

I cut X's into the cloth for where each clove will be planted. Thankfully, once I've cut my X, I'm good to go until the cloth gives up the ghost (hopefully 12 years down the row). You can use a garden dibbler or a hori hori garden knife to make a 2" deep hole for each clove. You want to place the clove in the ground so that the pointy end faces up. The wider part of the clove should always be at the bottom. If you used a garden dibbler to make the hole, gently push the soil over the hole to cover the clove. If using a hori hori garden knife, carefully remove the blade with a slightly rocking motion. The soil usually falls onto the clove. Once the blade is fully removed, if more soil is needed to cover the clove, gently brush it into place. When I first started, I used a wooden garden dibbler handcrafted from a shop on etsy. The wood started to crack, so I decided to try out a hori hori garden knife. Now it's all I use. The biggest downside to a hori hori in my opinion is also one of it's biggest pluses, it's sharp. I like to leave the blade in the soil and rock the blade to widen the hole. With my other hand, I use my fingers to push the clove into the soil. If I'm tired or feeling rushed, I have cut my gloves in the process. My recommendation is if you have very young garden helpers, let them use a wooden garden dibbler and save the hori hori garden knife for more mature users.

For the most part, you shouldn't have a lot of weeding to do until late winter, early spring. If you stay on top of it, the work will be minimal in this regard. Generally weeds need to be removed along the edges of the weed barrier cloth & from the holes in the cloth that the garlic is growing through. If you choose not to use weed barrier cloth, a weed hoe aka stirrup hoe or hula ho can greatly cut down on hand weeding. You can also opt to space your garlic so that a weed hoe will fit between them from all sides. No matter what, there will be weeds that grow tight to the bulbs. In this situation, hand weeding is required.

Harvest when 1/3 of the lower leaves start to turn brown and dye off. For me this is usually by the end of June. Soft neck garlic doesn't produce scapes. You can not use scapes as a reference as to when to harvest.

Growing Guide

Garlic is an annual plant in the Amaryllidaceae family that first requires a brief growing season, then cold to go dormant. It will then rush back to life in the spring, showing rapid growth.

7-9 Months

Zone: 5-9
Sun: Full
Water: Moist, Well Drained
Soil: Slightly Acidic to Neutral (6.0-7.0)
Clove Spacing: 6"
Row Spacing: 6" to 12" inches
Height: 12-18" tall
Scientific Name: Allium sativum

Direct Sowing: Plant 6 to 8 weeks before the ground freezes or around your first fall frost date. Sow seed in a light, well drained, slightly acid to neutral soil. Supply soil generously with compost or other organic matter, especially in clay. Sow 2" inches deep with the wider root facing down, slender pointed side faces up. Row space: 6" to 12" inches. A 10' foot row should produce around 5lbs of bulbs. Do not sow in waterlogged soil or heavy clay. Harvest in 7-9 months.

Transplanting: Not recommend.

Harvest: Very early summer. Do not pull from the stems. First, use a garden fork or a shovel to loosen soil around the bulbs. Then gently remove the bulbs from the soil. Be sure to try not to pierce or cut the bulbs.

Curing: Curing is critical. It improves the flavor and hardiness of the bulbs. Do not cut the stems from the bulbs. Leave the green tops intact. Gently move to a shaded, warm, dry, and well-ventilated area. Hang in bundles or spread the bulbs out in a single layer on wire screens or drying racks. If possible, use fans to circulate the air (do not point the fan/s directly at the bulbs). Allow to cure until the neck is dry and outer skin is papery, approximately 2 - 3 weeks. During this time, check for spoiled bulbs being careful to handle them gently and as little as possible. The high water content of the bulbs after harvest means that they can be easily bruised. They are also much more susceptible to rot. Once curing is complete you can cut off the dried tops approx. 1" inch above the bulb. Or leave in place to braid. They are now ready for eating, storage, or planting.

Storage: Store out of direct light no more than 4" inches deep in sturdy brown paper bags or boxes in order to maintain good air circulation. Store by braiding or tying several heads together and hanging up, or store by cutting tops off and placing bulbs in a mesh bag or open container, or spread on shelves in a layer less than 4" inches deep. Keep in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place at 45-55°F (7-13°C) and 50-60% relative humidity. Garlic stored in the refrigerator is likely to sprout. You can typically use an unheated room in your house, a root cellar, your garage, etc. Inspect at least once a month. Remove bulbs which have sprouted or spoiled. Otherwise they may all end up spoiling.

Seed Savers: Softneck varieties average 7 large cloves per head and 45 cloves per pound. Keep in mind that these numbers are averages. The actual number of cloves per pound can vary from year to year depending upon the weather and the growing conditions during seed production.

Weeds & Water: Weed barrier fabric helps to both suppress weeds and keep more moisture in the soil where the plants need it. I have tried a wide range of weed barrier fabrics from free to more expensive & have found this 12 year fabric by Dewitt performs the best. If not using weed barrier fabric, a weed hoe and hand weeding is recommend. Garlic is a hungry plant that doesn't do well when competing with weeds for nutrients.

Grow yourself healthy: gardening to transform your gut health all year round by Beth Marshall

For the most part, I like this book but there are areas that bother me, some more than others. The author focuses on fruits & vegetables, what I'll call plants that she feels are the most beneficial to ones microbiome. She touches on issues one can have with food restrictions & even mentions low FODMAPs. The mention here is that people who follow a low FODMAPs diet or similar type of diet are unhealthy & likely to suffer from more diseases. I was left with the impression that the author knows very little about low FODMAPs, nor that it is an actual medical diet, not a fad diet. Basically anyone who doesn't eat a diet rich in plant foods is likely to be sickly & the author seems to have no empathy as to the why behind the reasons some people cannot safely consume certain foods.

This lack of empathy & flat out lack of real knowledge about the medical realities as to why some people need to eliminate certain food groups was a real downer & left me feeling chastised by the author. I have endometriosis. The more nightshades I eat (tomatoes, eggplant, goji berries, peppers, etc.) the more pain I am in. I learned this the hard way. I love many nightshades & was growing a lot of them on my Eco farm. I was also eating them in abundance. Trying to work on my farm on some days was impossible. I was taking over the counter pain pills & watching the clock so I could get my next "fix." The pain was relentless; stabbing, twisting, horrible agony. Since quitting nightshades, my pain is cut by an easy 75%. That's nothing to turn my nose up at. So what if my microbiota like nightshades? If consuming them make me wish for death, I'm not eating them.

Regarding growing food crops. This is a tricky area. The author is UK based & "Manages the gardens on a 57 acre estate in Berkshire." This is important because the author & her family have a unique life in comparison to the majority. I am a full time Eco farmer. My farm is also my home. I'm also an American. I want to make it very clear that Eco farming is very hard work. It is a full time job. The author depicts an easy breezy lifestyle that I'm sick of seeing in so many gardening & back to the land types of books. They love to make it look so simple. Just sit back & watch the plants grow - not! The author even says, "Gardening is fun & relaxing..." To be fair, it can be. The smaller your garden, the more fun it is likely to be or if it's on the large size, the more help you have, the more you might enjoy it. But no matter the situation, gardening is dirty & back breaking. The weeds are relentless. The sun beats down on you & you are drenched in sweat, no swimming pool needed. The bugs bite you & destroy your crops. It. Is. Work. However, with the right attitude it can be worth it. There really is something deeply satisfying about growing your own foods.

Should you decide to jump in to grow all the plants the author suggests, I want you to go into it with your eyes wide open. It wont be easy. Not at all. It doesn't end with the growing of things either. You must also harvest, clean, cook, & preserve what you grow. If you don't have time to cook your families meals, you will never have time to grow your families food. This is reality. Take a good hard look at yourself before you dive in.

Of course, you don't have to grow it all. The author provides some cute option for growing in pots. Heck, you might just have one big pot on your balcony that you grow a small assortment of plants in to supplement your diet. Good for you. Whatever you decide, start small & take it from there. Take on what you can handle & stop when you realize you've reached the limit as to what you can comfortably handle.

You have picked what plants you'd like to grow. Now it's time to plant right? Maybe not. You need to find out what your growing region is & figure out what plants can be grown in it. For example, I cannot grow a lemon tree, the winter will kill it. Or how about Swiss chard? The author says it grows through winter. Maybe for her it does, but it doesn't for me. Mine is dead come winter. Some plants roots will survive, but most don't. I cannot even harvest cold hardy kale in the winter months. It survives, but it's not pretty & it's not worth trying to eat.

In the beginning of the book the author lists the nutrition information for various foods. What I almost immediately noticed was that the lists of foods that contain particular nutrients was incomplete. At first I thought this was a push for Veganism, but I did see some animal food listed, so I was a little thrown. I went into my book Paleo Principals which is a bible on food facts & nutrition. Sure enough, certain foods were left out of the equation. I don't know if this is due to a lack of knowledge on the authors part or a deliberate omission. I have been studying & reading up on health & nutrition for over 20 years. Out of the many books I've come across I have found The Paleo Approach &  Paleo Principals to be the most useful. If you are Vegan, I understand you not wanting to bother with these books. I'm sorry I don't have a Vegan book suggestion for you. I was Vegan for many years & I was very sick during that time. Switching to an AIP diet provided an immediate improvement. It was & still is rather incredible to me.

The author also includes a few fermentation recipes that require fermentation tools. I know some people get hung up on thinking they need all sorts of doodads to make stuff. Fermentation isn't always like that. Sauerkraut is one of the most basic & simple of ferments. Check out Sandor Katz's book Wild Fermentation for in depth recipes. Really all you need is to shred the cabbage, massage in salt, pound it into an non porous vessel or crock (I like glass mason jars) roll up clean outer leaves to press the cabbage under the brine & cover with breathable cloth that bugs can't penetrate. Let it ferment until it tastes how you like it. Then refrigerate for up to 6 months. Or, if you must, water bath can it (this will kill a lot of those beneficial critters but not all of them) using a Ball Blue Book (check your pricing & version on the Ball Blue Book before ordering, it could be cheaper elsewhere & it's updated often). It really is that simple.

I want to mention FODMAPs again. If you are following a low FODMAPs diet note that the majority of the plants in this book are high in FODMAPs. What the author doesn't understand is that this is a temporary diet. As you work through what you can & cannot tolerate, you will see which high FODMAPs foods you can once again enjoy. Not only that, but remember, it's the quantity at each meal that contains high FODMAPs & your personal tolerance. The author says it's not healthy, but really with diligence & food challenges, it is healthy. Consuming foods you cannot tolerate is not healthy, no matter the authors opinion. I also want to mention the Autoimmune Protocol (AIP). After a little over a decade of suffering, I finally mostly healed while on a AIP diet for 2 years. I then learned about FODMAPs & discovered which I could safely add & also learned the hard way about just how vicious nightshades (& to a lesser extent nuts like cashews - even sprouted) are on my body. Always trust your body. Don't do something if it makes you feel awful, no matter how much someone tells you it's the healthy thing to do. It might be healthy for them, but it could be akin to poison for you.

With all of this said, I'm keeping this book as a reference. It has a lot of useful information focusing on how to get the most nutrients out of plants. I will not grow everything the author recommends. That's fine. I'll grow what I can eat & tolerate. I will also feel no shame if I must get some of my produce from the grocery store. I know that growing my own is healthier all around. But for what I can't/wont grow, I'm going grocery shopping; especially in the winter. I do love my fresh baby greens.

I am fascinated by our microbiome. If you would like to explore the microbiome further that what's in this book, I highly recommend Gut by Jill Enders.

Overall, this is a decent book as long as you understand growing regions, micro climates, & trust what your body tells you. It absolutely is worth having. Just make sure it's not the only book you read on the topic.

An Almost Zero Waste Life: Learning How To Embrace Less To Live More by Megean Weldon

I am always looking for ways to reduce my footprint on the earth. Going Zero Waste has always seemed pretty daunting & downright impossible. Seeing blog posts where said blogger shows a photo of one years worth of waste for a family of four & it fits in a jar. Um, what? How? Seriously, how? This question coming from me, an Eco farmer who has been living a pretty sustainable life for well over a decade. But even I haven't figured out how to create no garbage whatsoever.

This book by Megean Weldon is much more realistic & as a result, optimistic. As the beginning of the book title says, "An almost zero waste life". Key word, almost. Finally someone who isn't going to say anyone can do the impossible by creating no garbage. Okay, wait. Yes, you could live naked in some secluded place, sort of like an animal. Maybe dig in garbage for stuff, but don't ever throw out said garbage. Hunt & forage for your food, etc. So, in theory, yes, we could go zero waste, but lets keep it realistic shall we? Running around naked is against the law nearly everywhere. Being homeless is generally frowned upon & really, who doesn't enjoy the comforts of home. Electricity, plumbing, being protected & cozy?

Rather than be judgemental or just make the reader feel like a jerk who simply isn't trying hard enough, Megean gives the reader lots of wonderful ideas to try to implement in order to reduce waste. She even frees us by saying, being zero waste is impossible. Thank you Megean!

For my own life, I am already implementing many of the suggestions in this book. I've had years to work on it after all. Some of the very suggestions now given by Megean were utilized at one point or another, but eventually given up on due to practicality. This doesn't mean what I have given up on wont be perfect for someone else. We are all individuals with unique personalities & lifestyles. The idea is to figure out what works for you.

Megean makes sure to point out that you don't just do it all at once. That's not realistic. Think in baby steps. When you run out of something, rather than buy the same something, replace it with something that is zero waste or as close to it as possible. For example, replace your paper towels with rags. Not rags that you buy, but real rags from clothes you no longer wear for whatever reason. I prefer to cut up only clothing made from natural materials (& as a result try to buy only natural clothing), but anything will do. Then launder the rags & use over & over. Nothing to buy, nothing to add to the landfill. The bonus is, by reducing your footprint, you also reduce your spending. Zero Waste living is very much like Living Simply or Living With Less.

In keeping with a smaller footprint, even this book by it's design & materials follows the ideas behind the Zero Waste movement. I always found it a bit hypocritical to write books of this type only to use toxic highly polluting materials to create the book. Oh the irony. Not only is this book super useful, it's adorable & "green".

Out of the the ten or so books my bibliophile self ordered in the past month or so, this is hands down my favorite & a real keeper, earning it a permanent spot on my shelf.

No-Waste Organic Gardening: Eco friendly Solutions to Improve Any Garden by Shawna Coronade

I couldn't wait to get my hands on this book as a full time Eco farmer. Silly silly me. I guess the word "garden" should have clued me in. If you are an experienced Eco gardener you'll probably want to give this a pass (or see if your library has it first before buying). I learned nothing from this book that I didn't already know, have tried, or am already doing. For those of you new to gardening, you will likely find this a wealth of information, as it is full of excellent low cost advice.

Pick a spot in your back yard, front yard, or both (if zoning allows), decide what type of soil you'd like to work with (till or no till - hint: you want no till), or use pots & planters if you have no space to work with. You will learn about different types of compost; how to create & use said compost. There are also tips on dealing with bugs. The author is a big fan of Castile soap which she seems to believe is an oil free soap (page 31). Castile soap is typically made with either olive, coconut, palm or some other vegetable oil; it is not oil free.  

She covers a lot of topics besides the ones I just mentioned & they are all worth trying out to see what works for you. Growing food & flowers is a learning experience (as is raising critters). You will never know everything. Mother Nature has a way of showing us growers just how little we know each & every year. I tell people that the more I learn, the more I realize that I know nothing. Not really, of course, I've learned a lot, but it really does feel that way.

Orchard produce, like berry bushes, grapes, & fruit trees are not covered.

Note: Eco gardening is a lot of work. I repeat, Eco gardening is a lot of work. Most of it is hand weeding. Don't say I didn't warn you. In the end, I hope you decide to stick with it. All that hard work has it's rewards, esp. in the middle of winter when you have all that glorious bounty put up. By January you'll be pursuing the seed catalogues, hard work forgotten in anticipation for the next growing season, which is full of endless possibilities.

Conclusion, this is a fantastic book for aspiring gardeners, wanting to organically produce their own veggies & flowers with a smaller footprint on our Mother Earth.

The Homesteaders Guide To Growing Herbs: Learn to Grow, Prepare, and Use Herbs by Kristine Brown

I run my own small Eco family farm full time. I've been doing it for over a decade & have been growing herbs & gardening even longer. I'm not a herbalist, but one does learn a thing or two by doing. I was very excited to receive this book. As always, I geek out over anything to do with herbs & growing things. Making tinctures & other goodies is another great pleasure of mine. Aside from recipes for humans, the author provides recipes for livestock & pets (of which I have all three categories). Words simply cannot adequately express just how eager I was to dive into this book.

Off I go reading this book. I'm thrown here & there, questioning the accuracy of some things. My thoughts were, She's the herbalist and she studied with Rosemary Gladstar, so surely she is right & I am wrong. Fine enough but when I see that she claims elderberry bushes grow to 25' (that's twenty five feet!), I really had to put on the breaks. I grow my own elderberry bushes. They don't grow that big. They max out at about 12.5'; about half the height she claims. Sorry, but I've never had an elderberry bush grow taller than my house. I tell myself this is likely a typo & continue to read. Then I get to wormers. OMG. She's killing me. Not dewormers. Wormers. So I guess I'm giving my animals worms then am I? No, this is to remove or kill the worms. Therefore it's de-worm. Ugh.

I also want to point out that this isn't about just herbs. She has black walnut (tree), elderberry (bush), onion (vegetable), peach (tree), raspberry (admittedly, raspberry leaf is considered an herbal, typically taken as tea or tincture), rose (bush), willow (tree), etc. Personally, I enjoy these additional foods, but I can understand it causing confusion & maybe even anger if one is looking for herbs. These additional foods have medicinal benefits & that is why they are in this book. The book really should have been given a different title as to not mislead. 'The Homesteader's Guide to Growing' is 100% correct, the remainder of the title is misleading (& it features the largest text ~sigh~). This is geared towards homesteaders which is me. This doesn't mean there isn't useful information for someone who doesn't homestead.

There are so many recipes I'd love to try, but rather than trust what is in the book, I must first research it first for safety. I'm so disappointed. I have very mixed feelings towards this book as a result. Part of me adores it. Another part of me fears it for the potential risks should there be incorrect information & I do not realize it. I have autoimmune disease & must be very careful with what my body is exposed to. Living my holistic & organic lifestyle greatly helps me manage my disease.

Unless you are highly experienced in herbal medicine, I probably wouldn't get this book (I really hate to say that). But I'm going to guess that if you are highly experienced, you wont need this book.

Angora A Handbook For Spinners by Erica Lynne

If you have an itch to have your own adorable fiber animal & you love fiber crafts, you need to read this book. This is the book I wish I had when I first started on my journey. The author is very knowledgeable in not only the care of angora rabbits, but has studied the differences in each breeds wool. She explains how each breed of angora rabbits wool performs for spinning & for how the fiber will knit. FYI: Knitting is more suited to a non elastic fiber such as angora.

This book starts with the history of angora, the development of angora as an industry, angora rabbits & their fiber, biological facts about angoras, types & grades of angora, & buying angora fiber. Phew! All that in just the first chapter!

The middle of the book focuses on how to work with angora fiber (also wrongly/commonly called wool). The author explains fiber preparation, spinning, blending, & colors. She also discusses how to create your own pure as in one hundred percent angora knitwear. Your eyes didn't deceive you. I did indeed say, 100% angora knitwear. "That's not possible" you might think. Think again. It is possible with the right angora fibers. The author explains how to make the most beautiful knitwear & even discusses the health benefits of wearing pure angora. But wait! There's more! You can weave, yes weave with angora!

The end of the book discusses producing your own angora fiber. How to find the perfect angora rabbit, travel with him or her, & how to care for him or her. She also discusses common rabbit diseases along with how to treat them. She even offers several ideas on how to properly groom & handle your angora rabbit during the long grooming process.

For such a slender, out of print book, the information within is timeless. The author is clear & professional in sharing her knowledge. The only thing I found disappointing is that the photos are in black & white. When she shows photos in regard to understanding colors, black & white photos are inadequate. The reader cannot learn nor fully appreciate the variances in colors & coat structures in the different breeds of angoras. It is also impossible to see the unique color contrasts in finished angora knitwear.

While this book is geared towards owning a angora rabbit as a pet and using it's fiber, if you are not interested in having a pet angora, it is still valuable. It can help you better understand (or if just getting started, learn) how this beautiful animals fiber behaves in comparison to other protein based fibers. It will also help you be a more savvy shopper. If you wish to use angora for spinning & other fiber crafts, this book should be on your shelf.

Chronic The Hidden Cause of the Autoimmune Pandemic and How to Get Healthy Again by Steven Phillips, MD and Dana Parish

"A new scientific truth does not triumph by convincing its opponents and making them see the light, but rather because its opponents eventually die, & a new generation grows up that is familiar with it." - German physicist Max Planck In other words, change does not occur because scientists with incorrect opinions change their minds in response to sound evidence, but rather because younger generations of scientists are more open to new ideas."

After nearly 20 years of suffering with health problems that no Doctor could ever hope to understand or address aside from IBS & incurable autoimmune disease, I like many others in my shoes, gave up on the doctors drug pushing in pursuit of alternative treatments.

"Big Pharma doesn't sell cures, it sells bandages - very expensive bandages that require lifelong refills. No pharmaceutical company is interested in finding the cause of autoimmune disease &  eradicating it. That wouldn't be profitable."

I decided to try to get better on my own by reading books and seeing what might "stick". My plan worked. I now feel better than I did when I was in my twenties, but to say I'm completely better would be a lie. The first step to improving my health was changing my lifestyle. Things like getting more exercise & fresh air, less TV, quitting booze, eating healthier, etc. The thing is, the older I get, the less recovered (aka in remission) I am feeling. The authors explain this phenomenon as our bodies burden growing the longer we live. Therefore our bodies are subjected to more & more invaders, giving our bodies more to have to fight which increases inflammation. This in turn creates more health problems. But can they be cured? That's what this book explores.

My current management plan has been a shelf full of supplements, quitting my job to start my own small Eco-farm (now my full time job) where I know exactly where my food comes from. The exercise from such an endeavor is nothing to sneeze at. I also follow a combination of a low FODMAPs/AIP diet. All of this in attempts to keep my symptoms in remission. Does it work? Most of the time yes.

Chronic opens the door to a new possibility at to the why of autoimmune disease. While the books main focus is on Lyme's (it calls all other autoimmune diseases Lyme +) it is not exclusively about Lyme's & it really is eye opening. However, there are a few problems with this book Most damning is that it is not written in an engaging way. It is too technical. Even the layout is not user friendly. The chapters on how to get better are not as helpful as one would hope.

My main take away from this book is to go to the Doctor (good luck with that as the meat of the book features numerous patients who sometimes had to visit upwards of 25 doctors before they were properly treated!), go on antibiotics & do "pulsing". Pulsing is going on a particular antibiotic for a certain length of time, then off the antibiotic for typically the same length of time, then back on the antibiotic for a certain length of them, then off the antibiotic... taking antibiotics off & on in "pulses".

The authors also touch on other possible methods for treating autoimmune disease aka Lyme + such as lifestyle changes, alternative therapies, dietary changes and supplementation. The dietary changes were often conflicting. In one section a Paleo diet is recommended. Later a Mediterranean diet is touted as best, then even later a Vegan diet is strongly encouraged. My conclusion is not that any of these types of diets are necessarily better than the other, that instead they are all reasonable options to try thanks to what they don't promote - processed "foods". Instead they tend to focus on things like Low carb, whole foods, unprocessed, home cooked, grass fed and finished, fruits & vegetables in their natural recognizable form, etc. By now everyone should know that fast food, meals in a box you "cook" at home, eating too many sweets, too much caffeine, processed meats... processed anything really is not good for you. How can you ever expect your body to heal if you don't nourish it with whole foods?

While this book was initially difficult to get into, by page 44 or so, it started to pay off. There is a lot to think about in the theory that bug bites in general (not just bites from ticks) are causing sickness in our bodies because our bodies are constantly trying to fight off invaders that are fast & sneaky. This in turn causes a wide range of health problems with no understood cause (autoimmune disease) when in the authors opinion there is a cause, it is the body fighting the invader. If the invader is mainly in the brain, the bodies defense could cause Parkinson’s for example.

One of Dr. Phillips patients who fully recovered after Dr. Phillips treated him, reported back to his previous doctor of his amazing results. His previous doctor (who didn't help him get better in the first place) responded to these results by saying "Sounds like voodoo medicine."

"And so it is in medicine that arrogance frequently goes hand in hand with ignorance. It's a wonder medical science makes any progress at all."

The Organic Artist for Kids: A DIY Guide to Making Your Own Eco-Friendly Art Supplies from Nature by Nick Neddo

Quote from the books introduction: "This book is a guide for adults to introduce children to the process of making art with nature's materials."

This is a wonderful book that gets kids back into nature and off of their electronic devices. Back to playing and creating verses sitting with a bent neck "experiencing" the world through a sterile screen. The author introduces so many wonderful ways to utilize what the earth provides to create unique works of art. Not only does he show how to make paints, charcoals, and inks, but he also features many photos of his amazing artwork using the media he teaches kids how to make.

Because you will want something to draw or paint with, he also shows how to make your own pens, paintbrushes, palette knifes, charcoal holders, crayons, etc. And how to make stencil art with cutouts, hands, and found objects. In one of these tutorials, a picture of knotweed was shown. Knotweed sticks were being used to make stone crayons. Thanks to this picture, I learned something I didn't know. I have Knotweed growing around my outhouse on my rural Eco farm. I never knew what it was, but thought it might be some type of bamboo. Now that I know I have an invasive species on my farm, I am working on eradicating it sans toxic chemicals.

The section on prints starts with the super simple many of us already know: using veggies as a stamp, to using berries, and even what he calls, "pounding plant prints" using a hammer. He also provides instructions on how to do rubbings, Eco prints (my favorite), and nature prints.

Some of the techniques are incredibly simple and easy to do, while others involve more work and multiple steps. Everything the author teaches encourages kids to explore and create. There is a decent section towards the end of the book on making paper mache. The end is land art, which is rather beautiful and calming.

I grew up playing outside. I had the life the author teaches kids in the book. Granted, I didn't do all of these things, but I did creative things in nature every day. It saddens me to see how much things have changed for so many of today's children. We need more folks like Nick Neddo and his books to get kids back into nature. There is nothing better than being outdoors in the fresh air.

Kid Food: The Challenge Of Feeding Children In A Highly Processed World by Bettina Elias Siegel

This book has opened my eyes to just how big the problems are with our school lunch program. I also gained additional knowledge about how the food industry (everything in me cringes at these two words being strung together) manipulates children at the youngest age possible (they are even trying to hook newborns). Initially, I had my own thoughts on how to try to improve our school lunch program. However, the more I read, the more I realized that there really isn't a easy solution. This left me to conclude that the obvious answer (albeit not likely to be received well by many)  is to abolish the school lunch program, the same as we desperately need to abolish the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency).

Before you freak out, hear me out.

First, regarding the EPA, they haven't protected the environment. It's just another drain on us tax payers. Go ahead & look into it. I'm not going to get into it here. If you do your research, you'll sadly see that I'm right. I am all for the protection our environment, but the EPA isn't the answer.

Second, is my idea to abolish the school lunch system (hear me out). There are too many problems right now with the school lunch system. This tiny book is crammed with facts. Note to those of you with bad eyes, the text is small. When I say this is crammed, I mean it. The school system was created so that no children came to school hungry. They were supposed to get nutritious meals. The lunch program is not funded by our taxes like the school system is. It is separate. At one point, funding was provided to update the kitchens. If my memory is correct, this funding stopped in either the mid 1970's or the early 1980's. The funding has not been reinstated. After the cost of employees, janitors, garbage pick up, etc. there is very little left for the actual food. Here comes the food industry to the rescue. They provide super cheap highly processed "food" enriched with vitamins & minerals to meet government requirements. The schools do not have to deal with as many health inspections, because the food is frozen. They just have to heat it up. It takes space, time, & money to prepare & cook fresh wholesome foods, not to mention, the health inspections are much more difficult to pass. Plus, the food is addictive, so the kids want to eat it. Therefore participation is up. It's a win for the school lunch program & a disaster for the children.

Schools also need a certain amount of children to participate in the school lunch program so that the schools can keep it running. The author seems to think that the solution might be found in forcing all students to eat a school provided lunch. Meaning, children are not allowed to brown bag it, in other words, bring their own lunch. The author mentions countries that already enforce this & she seems to think it's great. On this, I simply cannot agree.

She also feels that adding more taxes to junk foods will help solve the problem. Really? Come on now. How many more taxes do we really want to enforce? Are we not already taxed enough? Taxes & force are not the answer. This is supposed to be "The Land of the Free..." yet, folks are constantly voting to have their rights taken from them. Sorry, but I cannot agree with this.

What I can agree with is a law that doesn't allow children to be marketed to by food industries or any other industry for that matter. Pick an age, I'd say 18 or 21 for what I should hope are obvious reasons.

I believe in freedom of choice, even if folks aren't making what I feel are unhealthy choices. I don't want others to force their beliefs on me, so why on earth would I do it to others? What I believe in is education. An educated people is a powerful people. Educated people will not be duped by the food industry's marketing ploys to get you to buy their toxic pseudo food. We need to be held responsible for our own actions. However, if we are not being properly educated, we are at a huge disadvantage. Education is key.

Overall, while I don't agree with the authors ideas that she feels are solutions to the problem, I still enjoyed reading this book. It is jam packed with useful facts about the food giants & our schools lunch system. I absolutely recommend you pick this up & read it. You are likely to learn a lot. What you do with that information is up to you.

The Old Farmer's Almanac Vegetable Gardener's Handbook

As a full time organic farmer, I have learned a lot over the years. Because I am madly in love with my job, I continue to learn & read anything I can get my hands on regarding natural farming. While I did already know much of the information in this book, I also learned a great deal too. My favorite thing to say is that no matter how much I learn, I know nothing.

This small & slender book is beautifully laid out with full color photos & packed with information regarding the growing requirements of vegetables. From soil health, to compost, fertilizers, weather, plant variations, & more, this book is bursting with useful information & tips. At the end of each section there are charts you can fill out to help you keep track. For example: 'My Seed-Starting Record' This has a column for the date planted, the seed/variety, the medium, & the days to transplant. There are disease & pest records, fertilizer records, rotation records, & much more. If you don't want to write in the book, I suggest photo copying these pages & putting them into a dedicated farm journal/binder.

If you are new to gardening, know that you will make mistakes. If you are smart you will learn from them. The more in tune you are with your micro climate & your land, the more progress you will make each growing season.  After a few years you will be amazed at how far you have come & how much knowledge you have gained, not to mention a pantry full of your bounty come the dreary winter months.

Be aware that this is strictly a vegetable & herb book. If you would like growing advice for fruits, flowers, berries, or cotton, you will want to buy separate books.

I highly recommend Rodale's Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening. It's not as pretty as this book, but it's great if you want to look something up.

Do I recommend this book by The Old Farmer's Almanac? Yes, yes, & yes. I love it.

Bring on the butterflies! Milkweed is the only source of food for the Monarch caterpillar. Monarchs need milkweed plants to lay their eggs on, and the baby caterpillars that hatch can only eat and grow on milkweed. So, milkweed plants are essential for Monarch butterflies to survive.

The chemicals the caterpillar ingests from the milkweed plant remain in its body even after metamorphosis, making the adult butterfly toxic & bitter-tasting to many predators. Adults no longer feed on milkweed leaves but are still dependent on the nectar from the milkweed flowers & other nectar producing plants.

Add other flowers such as cleome, butterfly bush, bee balm & herbs such as dill to your garden along with a shallow water dish to attract more beneficial pollinators & to help the Monarch from becoming extinct!

Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is native to much of the eastern USA. It grows approx. 48" tall & blooms from late June - July. It is a Perennial hardy in zones 3 - 9.

The seeds can be planted in the fall, because they need to be cold stratified. You can do this by putting them in your refrigerator for several weeks prior to planting.

To improve germination rates, place the seeds in packets made from paper towels & soak them in warm water for 24 hours prior to planting.

Start indoors: 4-8 weeks before transplanting.
Sow outside: After the danger of frost has passed. Note: Common Milkweed germinates poorly at high temperatures >85˚F
Size: 4'
Hardiness: Perennial
Sun: Full
Water: Moderate
Seed Spacing: 1/4” - 1/2"
Seed Planting Depth: 1/4"
Thinning: 6" - 24"
Days to Germination: 7 - 10 (if the temp. is maintained at 75˚F).

This hardy, perennial flower will seed & begin to propagate itself, providing you with even more beautiful flowers.

If you want to save the seed pods rather than let them self sow naturally, you will want to put something over the pods once you see them starting to dry and split. Anything that is light and lets plenty of air through should work. Old panty hose, row cover, sheer curtains, etc. Cut the fabric of choice to the size needed, put it over each individual seed pod, then secure the fabric at the stem, just under the base of the pod with a bit of cotton string or yarn (saving the string from bags of feed &/or pet food throughout the year is a great way to have string on hand and be more environmentally friendly to boot). This will contain the seeds as the pod opens while also allowing air to flow through which helps to prevent moldering.

Once the pods are completely dry, you can then cut them from the stalks. Leaving the fabric coverings on, bring them inside and then carefully remove their fabric coverings. The pods can be stored in paper bags for up to a year or stored longer in the refrigerator or freezer. When storing in the refrigerator or freezer, be sure that the pods are completely dry and keep them in plastic seed saver bags that will not allow moisture in. You can also use a vacuum sealer.

If you are using the fibers for spinning, you will want to carefully remove the fibers from the seeds and store the fiber in tissue paper, a paper bag, or storage container until you are ready to use it. The seeds can then be stored in the same way as you would the seed pods.

You can also use the seed pods as "seed bombs." Milkweed supports more than just butterflies. It is also beneficial to native bees, honey bees and many other beneficial insects.

Safety: If for whatever reason, you find you need to cut fresh milkweed, use caution. Milkweed  contains a toxic milky sap that is very difficult to wash off and is very dangerous if you ingest it or get it into your eyes. In some people skin contact alone can cause an allergic reaction. Fully dried milkweed no longer produces a milky sap and as a result is much less likely to cause a toxic reaction.

Raising Happy Rabbits: Housing, Feeding, And Care Instructions For Your Rabbit's First Year by Brittany May and Penny Ausley

This book caught my eye one day while I was happily shopping at my local Tractor Supply. Of course it was the adorable pointed white fluffy bunny munching away on a carrot top that made me pick it up & start to flip through it. I noticed a lot of fluffy bunny photos & care tips that seemed pretty good, so I decided to get it. Once I sat down & read this from cover to cover, my happy thoughts trickled away.

I suppose my first warning should have been that these bunny experts have only raised 4 rabbits in 6 years time between the two of them. Sure, you gain experience, but come on now! Experts? I think not. This is not to say that experience isn't gained, of course it is. In the beginning you knew nothing, after a year, you know so much! You want to tell everyone. I get this. It's exciting & even after a year or two, still somewhat new because, guess what? If you are doing it right, you will keep learning. I suppose after nearly two decades of caring for very high maintenance angora rabbits, I do not view the care of these animals as black or white which is the view of the young authors of this book. The gray area this book ignores is so vast one could loose themselves in it.

The rabbit on the cover is a pointed white Lionhead. The authors claim the rabbit is a dwarf Lionhead. It's just a Lionhead, nothing more. Perhaps they should join the American Rabbit Breeders Association for a proper education on the various breeds of rabbits & their care.

The authors claim that breeders don't care about their animals. Sure, some are in it just for the money, but they never last. Nobody gets rich breeding rabbits. Those who stick with it year after year do it for the love of the rabbit breed/s they are raising. There are plenty of good rabbit breeders.

The authors recommend adopting a rescue over a breeder even though a rescue can have all sorts of unknown problems due to abuse. If you are a first time rabbit owner, a high needs bunny who needs therapy to heal mentally might not be the best choice for you. I happen to rescue bottle baby kittens. I'm all about rescue. In some situations, it's great, in others, it might not be the best choice. It's that gray area I mentioned. I do rescue angora rabbits. It's work. A whole lot of work. I would never suggest a newbie get a rescue angora.

The authors promote House Rabbit Society. To me, they are akin to PETA. They seem great initially, but are so ridged in their rules that should you do one little thing they don't agree with, they will attack you. House Rabbit Society has the best of intentions (unlike PETA). I will not go so far to say that I am against them, because I'm not. My problem is their extreme black or white views. There is zero room for gray & that unbending attitude doesn't reflect the reality of caring for rabbits. I love House Rabbit Society for their love of bunnies, but that's it.

The authors recommend giving a stuffed animal to a single rabbit. This is something I don't think is a good idea because rabbits love to chew. The majority of stuffed animals are synthetic & filled with potentially toxic poly fill (aka petroleum byproducts). I'm not saying you can't get your rabbit a stuffed friend, but if you do, be sure to pay attention. If it gets chewed, you need to remove it right away. A better option is a 100% natural & non toxic toy made from natural fibers such as cotton, wool, or even dare I say it, rabbit hair.

There is absolutely no mention of same sex fighting. So many newbies make the mistake of thinking they can put new bunnies together to be "friends" only do discover that their bunnies which were such sweethearts are now biting, kicking & scratching each other bloody. Sexually mature rabbits who have not been spayed or neutered should never be housed together. In some situations, does (females) can live together safely, but there is always the possibility of them fighting if they are not fixed. If you want to keep bunnies together, get them fixed.

The authors also state not to hold a rabbit on their back. I don't understand this one bit. If your rabbit is comfortable with you, resting him or her on his or her back in the V of your thighs while you are sitting is very comfortable. Many of my bunnies will doze off in this position. While they lay like this, I am free to groom their belly's & clip their nails.

A completely false claim is made that wire bottom housing is "murder" on their feet & they will get sore hocks if housed this way. This is not true. Sore hocks are caused by a dirty cage. If you care at all for your bunny, keep their home clean! You can also purchase resting pads & even fold up an old towel. Depending on your level of commitment, you can keep your rabbit completely off of wire provided you clean your rabbits area daily or more. For angora rabbits which is my specialty, you will need to provide a wire bottom litter box. Fluffy bunnies get very dirty wool. You do not want urine & pellets building up on your rabbits wool. Do not feel bad if you choose to house your rabbits on wire provided you give them a resting mat or something similar. Wire bottoms are the most sanitary option you have. If you choose to forgo wire bottoms, please do not harass those who choose them.

The authors really want you to keep your bunnies indoors. Not surprising as they are House Rabbit folks. The problem with this is how severely they downplay the damage an indoor bunny can cause. Does this mean I'm telling you not to keep them indoors? Of course not. You do what works best for you. In order to push their House Rabbit opinion, the authors wax on about how bad outdoor hutches are for bunnies. It would be great if the authors instead pointed out the pro's & con's of each. Outdoor hutches can be wonderful options for your bunny depending on the type of the hutch & the set up. Obviously a poorly designed hutch in a bad location is not a good idea. Same goes for a bunny living in a too small cage indoors. Indoors or out, a bunny can be ignored & neglected. It's the owner of the bunny who makes the difference.

In the authors efforts to push indoor bunnies, they completely fail to mention how bad rabbit urine smells. They also fail to mention how a rabbit tends to urinate. They like corners & will lift when they release. This means that the urine is likely to land outside of their litter pan or tray. This is why litter boxes sold for rabbits have such a high back & why cages have urine guards.

They do mention "mock mating". It is the authors opinion that you shouldn't mind it when your male bunny vigorously humps your foot because he is expressing his love for you. Personally, I don't want any male animal humping my foot or any other body part, but that's me. Then they state that the furiously humping bunny will "seize" without explaining what "seizing" is. When a male rabbit has reached satisfaction, to put it politely, they briefly lock up & then fall over. They get up & usually do a little shake or thump or whatever expressing their after copulation joy.

Should your rabbit need it's bum cleaned they promote very toxic Johnson's & Johnson's baby shampoo & baby powder as well as diaper rash ointment. In their rabbit first aid kit, they also show some toxic products. Please, never used these products on your rabbits.

There is a DIY picket fence project showing painted wood. Rabbits should never be given painted wood. Please opt for untreated raw wood only. The authors tell the reader to make toys but don't properly show the newbie how to make them.

The authors instruct the reader to never discipline their rabbit if he or she nips aka bites you because the rabbit is showing you affection & he or she wont understand why you are disciplining him or her. It is never acceptable for your rabbit to nip & bite you. While a nip might not do damage other than an unpleasant pinch, a bite can cause you serious injury. Personally, I am not a fan of allowing which is essentially encouraging my rabbits to nip aka bite me. There are other ways to show affection.

They recommend Advantage for treating fleas & mites, but they show a photo of Revolution.

The information on angora rabbits is woefully ignorant. They give incorrect information about what breeds of angora do & do not molt & also falsely claim that most angora wool is from rabbits who are tortured & their fur is ripped from their skin. Join a site like Ravelry or Etsy or something similar & you will find plenty of angora wool from bunnies who are well cared for & loved.

The authors promote the Oxbow brand relentlessly. They also got their answers & opinions from a vet who is also the VP of Oxbow...

To be fair, there are sections of this book that I liked. The pictures are always enjoyable as are some of the treat ideas & some information regarding care. The problem for me is that there is entirely too much false information & harsh judgement of others who don't do it their way. Not to mention the nonsense they spout about angora bunnies. For these reasons, this is a book I do not recommend. There are many other books about rabbits available with much better information.

Good Husbandry: Growing Food, Love, and Family on Essex Farm by Kristin Kimball

Years ago, when The Dirty Life came out, I was curious & as a result, read a good amount of the reviews available at the time. I was already farming organically at this point having gone from dreaming about it, reading books that glamorized it, then having a hobby farm while working full time, to finally full time farm ownership. Some of the reviews of The Dirty Life made me decide against the book. They made it seem like another fantasy farming book rather than the real deal. A spoiled princess, with loads of money decides to "rough it". I gave it a firm pass & never thought of it again until I came across this book, 'Good Husbandry'.

What really caught my attention was the books description. This was the after. This was the hardships. This was what happened after the rose colored glasses came off, or so I thought based on my limited to 0 knowledge about the first book. I immediately ordered this book & called my local library so I could read The Dirty Life first.

I don't want to turn this book review into one about The Dirty Life So all I'm going to do is stress to you just how much I fell instantly in love with The Dirty Life. It was nothing like I'd expected. It has touched me in a way that no other book on farming has ever done. Finally, something real. No rose colored glasses. No Mary Jane's Farm. Just the real dirt on what it is to farm naturally. It touched me deeply & has stayed with me ever since.

Now onto Good Husbandry. This book didn't touch me like the first book, but it is still a great book in it's own right. Good enough in fact that I also purchased the audio version & have read this book more than once.

As the title states, it is mostly about caring for the various animals on the farm. As Kristin discusses this, she gently discusses how hard farming is on a marriage. There are so many passages in this book that I'd love to quote, but really, there are too many, much too many for me to pick any one quote. One I remember is when she mentions a farming relationship, I believe she said something along the lines of how farming can end in divorce. Towards the end of the book a farmer friends barn burned down. Kristen says how she burst into tears. Not for the building but for the loss of all of the work that went into it. That sums up farming as a whole. You put in endless amounts of backbreaking labor & it can all be wiped out in an instant. A total loss. It can destroy your hope, your faith in what you do, or you pick yourself up, learn from it, & try again.

I don't know many people who can relate to my way of life as an organic farmer. I don't use tractors, I don't till, I don't use the endless amounts of "stuff" that is applied to the land. On top of that, hardly anyone seems to farm anymore. It is shocking & disheartening to see how year after year, people are become more removed from their food rather than closer. I would have expected closer with the local farm movement in full swing, but somehow, it's just not the case. In too many situations farmers are villainized. I'm sure this is in part to factory "farming", but what about the rest of us? The real farmers? We work hard, we do it because we love it. We do it because we love the outdoors, the land, the animals, eating the best food ever. Read both of Kristen's books, you'll see how hard it is & why it is the best life ever.

To sum it up, Kristen manages to show both the beauty & the misery of farming. She is my hero.

The Dirty Life: A Memoir Of Food, Farming, And Love by Kristin Kimball

When I first came across this book, I thought it might be interesting. I was looking for books about small farms whose owners choose to do it the old fashioned way. I didn't need to read another farm porn book with pretty pictures that set up the armchair farmer to believe that farming is really as simple as poking a seed in the ground & then you eat. In a way, it is this simple if you pretend the labor involved in between doesn't exist.

As with anything that catches my interest, I look for reviews. At that time, the negative reviews painted a picture of exactly what I didn't want. A rich couple who know nothing try to start a farm, the language is obscene & the book is too whiny. After seeing several reviews along those lines I decided to give The Dirty Life a pass. What a mistake.

Several years later I came across a book titled Good Husbandry. It hadn't been reviewed yet. I noticed it was by the same author who's previous book, I'd given a firm pass. This time was different for me. Good Husbandry appeared to be years down the road after the rose colored glasses came off - or so I imagined having never read the first book. Now this had my interest. How did this woman & her husband fare after all these years? I immediately put in a request for the book & also immediately contacted my wonderful local library to see if they carried The Dirty Life. I picked it up that day. I wanted to read it first so I would have a better understanding of the story behind Good Husbandry.

In my humble opinion, The Dirty Life is the best non fiction book ever! I have never read another person's accounting on farming that I have connected with so deeply. This book is raw & dirty. Kristin was a New York City thirty something writer. She dated but not seriously & didn't feel connected, but loved her apartment & her life. Or did she?

The beginning of the book she introduces the reader to how she ended up where she is now & we can blame it all on a man. In this story, that man is Mark. Kristen wanted to explore the budding local food movement & found a farm she wanted to interview. Her brief time at this farm & with Mark left her craving more. She wasn't sure exactly what she wanted, just that something was missing. Kristen & Mark start to date. Eventually Mark convinces her that they should marry & have a local environmentally responsible farm that provides a full diet. A full diet meant not just your typical vegetables, but also grains, milk, butter, cheese, meats, eggs & sugar (in this case, maple syrup). To their knowledge, this had never been done before.

There relationship was very rocky but something must have clicked with them because through it all, they stuck it out. Eventually they found Essex Farm. This was a huge bit of land that hadn't been farmed in ages. It had many outbuildings in disrepair & a variety of fields & pastures as well as a very old farmhouse that needed some serious TLC.

They put everything they had in their dream of a full diet farm. Everyone thought they would fail. After all, who makes money farming? For them, it wasn't just about making money though. It was about creating something local that would be of benefit to the locals. They wanted to produce real wholesome food that didn't come neatly wrapped & placed on shelves in florescent lighted stores from... well who really knows? They wanted real.

The purchased draft horses to plow the fields, Jersey dairy cows for the best milk you could ever hope to drink, pigs, chickens, sugaring supplies (to make maple syrup), & Scottish Highland cattle for meat, & plenty of seeds.

The picture Kristen paints of their adventure into farming is both beautiful & disturbing. For myself, I find it incredibly easy to relate to both. While my farm is nothing like Essex Farm, it is also exactly the same. I'm not providing a full diet CSA (Community Supported Agriculture), raising pigs, tapping maples, beef cattle or working with my husband. Nor do I have hundreds of acres. But it doesn't matter. It's the heart of it that matters. It's the land. It gets into you & it doesn't let go. Going out into "civilization" is jarring. Everything is so clean, people are dressed so nicely. It's like an entirely different world. Farming is dirty, sweaty, labor intensive & sometimes heartbreaking. Farming is also rewarding, addictive, & beautiful. Plus, you eat the healthiest freshest foods. Farmers get to eat like kings.

I was (am) so smitten with this book, that after reading the borrowed library edition, I found a signed copy on Amazon & purchased it. I also got the audio book version. I begged my husband to listen to it on audio & he did. He liked the book, but it didn't resonate with him like it does with me. Perhaps this is because he's a part time farmer. Perhaps because it's from a woman's point of view. Maybe a little of both?

The world needs more authors like Kristen to show what farming really is like in all it's beauty & struggles.

Arkansas green cotton is a rather interesting cotton to grow. This cotton has the longest growing season of all the organic heirloom cottons I've grown so far - 135 days. It is also the first time in all my history of growing cotton that I've had a one hundred percent germination rate (see resources for my suppliers). Needless to say, I've had huge Arkansas Green cotton crops. Note to self, stop starting so many seeds!

In an attempt to reduce my need to hand water & weed, I decided to try weed barrier cloth for the first time. This plan worked beautifully for about the first month. After that, the cloths began to break down. Some areas broke down more quickly than others, while some actually did the job all the way until the end although they ended up very brittle. None of the cloths blocked 100% of the light, so weeds did manage to grow, but not like they would have if the soil was left uncovered. They didn't help with moisture retention as much as I'd hoped, but they did work well enough that I only had to water well & daily the initial first two weeks after transplanting. The types of weed barrier cloth I experimented with were all locally purchased. One was a black plastic type from Walmart (apologies, I do not remember the brand), the other two were more of a black type of fabric. They were from Lowe's. One of the Lowe's brand cloths was much larger. I used it to cover the compost pile over the summer & to cover a section where I had zucchini planted. It let in an incredible amount of light considering I doubled it up. The more narrow fabric cloth (Sta-Green Premium Landscape Fabric) did a better job but broke down the most quickly out of all three types. I'm currently experimenting with a different brand that I ordered for garlic. It is a 12 year fabric by Dewitt. So far it is holding up.

The immature plants tend to host a generous amount of aphids with their happy ant farmers keeping them well cared for. To deal with the aphids, I use natural & organic neem oil by Neem Aura. I rub the thick oil on the plants spindly stems & on the leaves, crushing aphids in the process. When I'm done I stink like neem, but it's worth it as it helps to keep the ants off the plants (bugs hate neem) & thereby the ants aren't farming the aphids for their sweet nectar. Once the plants are established I do not concern myself further with aphids. The plants do get them, but it isn't anything that has ever caused a problem with any of my cotton harvests so far.

In my experience, organic heirloom cotton needs to be staked. To be fair I've never grown conventional cotton or cotton that wasn't heirloom so I cannot compare heirloom to conventional. No cotton has been more in need of a good staking than Arkansas Green. Even at a young stage, the littlest breeze comes along & these plants are determined to lie flat. Initially I used my usual bamboo stakes to hold them up. This worked well enough while they were still relatively small. By mid summer, they needed actual fence stakes to keep them upright. Once they were all properly re-staked, the problems aren't over. The plants also tend to loose their limbs. I don't know if it's simply due to my growing area or if this is common for this cotton no matter where it is grown. Should you choose to grow this cotton, it's best to err on the safe side & invest in strong, high quality fence stakes rather than traditional garden stakes.

Towards the end of a growing season, one half of my Arkansas Green cotton crop looked like a tornado touched down. Clearly, there were differences in light & soil compared to the other area as it didn't look like this. The "tornado" section grew much larger, easily reaching it's 7' foot height. It also had much more dense growth. The normal side didn't grow as tall, had less breakage, was less dense, and the bolls matured sooner. The space between the two growing areas was maybe 20' feet apart at most, so this noticeable difference was rather remarkable.

One sunny afternoon while I was working in the cotton I suddenly noticed the weed cloth lifting up & the young cotton plants getting whipped around. I stopped working & stood open mouthed as I watched a wind funnel tear through my young crop, travel across the pasture to whip about my peach trees, then pass on to my neighbors to shake the leaves of one of their trees. From that point on, I could no longer track the destructive little wind storm. In the aftermath I was left with shredded weed barrier fabric & the loss of some leaves, but no other damage. The juvenile cotton plants were all staked up with their garden stakes & survived the storm. I did have to repair the cheap weed cloth, but thankfully, that was the worst of it. If I hadn't staked up the plants, a lot of them would have been laid flat. If I hadn't been out working at that moment, I would have been very confused to find the area torn apart. The day was sunny & clear, there wasn't much of a breeze to speak of. The wind funnel that tore through didn't even ruffle my long hair as it made its journey.

Like the plants before it, the flowers are very attractive to the bees. At one point, I was stunned to find a worker bee so loaded with pollen, she could barely move! Tomorrow is another day my girl, tomorrow is another day! Advice we all need to remember when times get crazy & you just cannot get enough accomplished in the day. Arkansas Green loves to keep me on my toes. That is the beauty of farming, you always learn something new.

Growing Guide

Cotton is an annual plant that requires a long, warm growing season to mature properly. It needs full sun. In zones 8–10 it can be sown directly after the last frost. In zones 5–7, treat like tomatoes, start seed indoors and transplant out 4–8 week-old seedlings after last frost. Seed germinates in 7–21 days at 70°F. Plant 20–32" inches apart in rows 6' feet apart. Plants start flowering in mid-summer. Bolls take a few more months to mature; warm late summer weather is necessary for a good crop. Plants grow to 5-7' feet tall.

135 days.

Direct Sowing: Sow seed in a light, well drained, slightly acid to neutral soil. Supply soil generously with compost or other organic matter, especially in clay. Sow no deeper than 2 - 4 times the seed diameter. Do not sow in waterlogged soil or heavy clay.

Transplanting: Use a good quality sterile seed starting mix. Sow pots or flats 4 - 8 weeks before transplanting. When several leaves have developed, harden off the seedlings by placing them outdoors in direct sunlight for no more than an hour. Gradually increase the outdoor exposure over a period of several days. Transplant to the garden after the last frost.

Harvest: Wait for bolls to split open before harvesting.

Seed Savers: Isolate varieties by 1/8 mile for home use, or 1/4 to 1/2 mile or greater for pure seed.

A few considerations: This is a long season (135 days) crop. Arkansas Green produces green cotton with short fibers & dark green seeds. I have noticed that the green color can be rather rich or faded to a brownish green. If it is not harvested quickly after the bolls have open, the green color will fade to a lighter brownish green. To help reduce fading, keep out of direct sunlight. Wash in cold water and use vinegar rather than fabric softener in the fabric softener dispenser of your washer (fabric softener is traditionally loaded with toxic chemicals, so you are better off without it. You can use happily use vinegar in it's place for all of your laundry). Alternately, you can also try adding a half cup of salt to the wash water. Overall, green lint is more prone to fading & fades faster than the brown lint. I have also found it to be one of the harder lints to hand gin. Sea Island Brown being the most easy.